True Bias Riley Overalls

At the end of a busy summer, I wanted to get back into my sewing room with a slow burn project. I have had the Riley Overalls pattern for a while (I believe Josie at LA Finch sent it to me for a sample that never happened) and I decided it would be fun to make a pair using only denim scraps. I've made a lot of jeans in my time, so I had plenty of scraps. I took a nice long time sewing these up and think they turned out great!

The project started with sashiko stitching on one of the back pockets. Obviously, it wasn't damaged, so this wasn't for mending purposes. I just think it looks cool. I used a stick and stitch template from Approved Textiles. This pocket purposefully became the back left pocket, because I am always putting my phone in my back right pocket and did not want any wear and tear on the back of the visible stitching.

My hips measure 38" so I made a size 8. I think they turned out pretty roomy, and that I probably could've gone down one size. I have other pairs of overalls that are made with stretch denim and fit more closely, so it's possible I'm just used to that feeling. However, these will be great for wearing over a hoodie or a chunky sweater. I don't have to unbutton them at all to get them on and the jean buttons in the side pocket area are non-functional. I installed them straight through all the layers without a buttonhole.

I also think the straps were crazy long, but it's difficult to shorten them since they get wider as you go up the strap and no longer fit neatly into the buckle hardware. This is an edit I need to make to my paper pattern for next time. For reference, I'm 5'4". I'm sure the pattern is drafted for someone taller. I added some decorative topstitching on the back crossover just for fun.

The biggest decision I had to make was whether or not to mix and match denims for the pant legs. Since I had enough to keep them all the same, that's where I landed. And crazy enough, the denim used for the legs, I previously used for a different pair of overalls (Yanta) and a pair of Ash Jeans. This denim is highly unique. It has stretch AND it has a backing of French terry. I bought multiple cuts of it (again, Josie from LA Finch) and then Loni @havinsewmuchfun sent me some of her cuts that she no longer wanted. It's soft, cozy, and perfect for keeping your legs warm.

The other denim pieces were a mix of Cone Mills stretch denims, rigid heavy black denim originally from Blackbird (Lander Pants), a lightwash Japanese stretch denim (Ginger Shorts), a lightwash stretch denim from Cali Fabrics (Emma Trousers), and even some Tencel chambray (hacked pleated pants).

All the hardware was part of the Prym Vario Creative Tool universe. More on that in a bit.

Per usual with True Bias patterns, the instructions were excellent. There was only one part I messed up, when adding the hip shield, but it was easy to correct. There is also a video sewalong, but I never consulted it.

My slow burn fall project is complete, just in time for cooler weather and outdoor garden tasks! Highly recommend this pattern if you have the patience for a long project, want to try out sewing denim, but aren't ready to tackle jeans. Overalls are WAY easier to fit because they lack a waistband.

Back to the hardware. When I attended the H&H trade show back in May, I was able to see the Vario Creative Tool and all that it could do (punch holes, set rivets, install jean buttons, install eyelets, just to name a few!). Prym graciously sent me a tool and some accessories to try. Over the years, I have tried SO MANY hardware setting tools, snap setting tools, pliers, hammers, rivets, jean buttons...on and on. And they all generally suck. I used this tool for every single rivet and jean button on these overalls and NOT ONE failed. No damaged hardware. No smashed thumbs from a hammer. No misplaced hole. Not a single solitary issue. When I tell you that this is mind blowing: believe me. Prym specifically told me to share my experience without any suggested talking points, and that is my experience. Love, love, love this tool.

For more info about the Vario tool and how it works, watch this YouTube video. Thank you Prym!