This week's episode was fun. Textile design and avant garde in one! I also appreciated the team mix-ups, it was refreshing. I'm still hoping for singles soon, though...
I am SO DONE with Layana. When they revealed new teams, everyone had something halfway positive to say except her. Would she have been happy with anyone? I think if they had said "singles!" her response would have been "I don't think it's fair to have to work with myself. Everyone else has more experience so I should have a partner to help me."
My love for Daniel knows no end. He could see that Layana was going to undermine anything he did, and he graciously gave in to her controlling behavior, while still managing his own great look. Heidi was right, Layana does think she is awesome and it's annoying to no end.
I wasn't in to Michelle and Stanley's print, but it was nice to see them working together so well. Their clothes also looked impeccably made, with the exception of the painted bubble wrap goop. Ew.
I felt bad for Richard, but he probably should have known better than to try being inspired by Patricia. He admitted that their aesthetics were different, so he should have just owned whatever he wanted to do.
I can't possibly say anything polite about Layana's post-runway meltdown. Daniel was right, she was owning the entire avant garde outfit and half of his garment? After admitting that Daniel helped HER? She acted supremely entitled, as if wanting the prize money meant she was entitled to have it (and have everyone else help give it to her). It was pointless anyway, since Michelle and Stanley were obviously going to win. And how great was Stanley?? Deadpan voice: "I'm overjoyed."
It was easy to see this elimination coming. Richard had a deer-in-headlights look the whole episode, and he knew it was coming. Another gracious exit. If I have to see Layana in the finals...my dislike is approaching Gretchen levels, which is something I never thought I'd feel again about PR. Here's hoping for a Daniel/Stanley/Michelle finale!
Friday, March 29, 2013
Thursday, March 28, 2013
Sewing Project: Winter PJs
I know I keep harping on the lingering winter weather...but it's really bumming me out. It's almost April and there's snow on the ground (okay, small patches, but still). My prediction is that we'll skip spring, and all of a sudden it will be 95 degrees. I wouldn't complain about that, but I'm ready for it to happen already!
But since it's still cold...how about we talk Winter PJs? This pattern is from Peek-A-Boo Pattern Shop, and I've sewn it up twice for AB.
This version is made with a cotton thermal knit.
When my sister saw the photo of AB wearing these, she said she wanted a version for herself! The cuffs here are also a thermal knit from an old shirt of mine. My husband really likes thermal knits on AB, and I would like to work with them more often. They're warm, and I didn't find them any different than sewing with other kinds of knits.
Both versions pictured are in the 12 month size (these photos are from this past fall). AB has grown out of the shirts (actually...her HEAD has grown out of the shirts!) but we're still using the pants, probably not for much longer, though.
I'm debating whether or not to make up a few more in the 18 month size, or to try waiting out this stupid weather. Perhaps there will be some Summer PJs in her future, instead!
But since it's still cold...how about we talk Winter PJs? This pattern is from Peek-A-Boo Pattern Shop, and I've sewn it up twice for AB.
Pattern available here.
This is a great "blank slate" pattern without too much fuss. As you can see, the lines are simple so the fabric gets to shine, and there is a lot of variety with different fabric choices. And with cuffs on the sleeves and ankles, instead of hemming, you can sew them up in no time!
This version features a lightweight cotton jersey with ice cream cones. This is one of those fabrics that was too cute to resist buying, but is something I would never personally wear. Thank goodness for a cute little girl!
The sleeves are a solid white interlock that were cut from an old blanket (I got a LOT of blankets at AB's baby shower, but she can't stand sleeping with anything on her!). The cuffs are a rib knit that I upcycled from a shirt of mine that didn't fit anymore. How fun is that, three different knits in one outfit?
When my sister saw the photo of AB wearing these, she said she wanted a version for herself! The cuffs here are also a thermal knit from an old shirt of mine. My husband really likes thermal knits on AB, and I would like to work with them more often. They're warm, and I didn't find them any different than sewing with other kinds of knits.
Both versions pictured are in the 12 month size (these photos are from this past fall). AB has grown out of the shirts (actually...her HEAD has grown out of the shirts!) but we're still using the pants, probably not for much longer, though.
Current photo. Awesome glow-in-the-dark
shirt from AB's great-grandma.
I'm debating whether or not to make up a few more in the 18 month size, or to try waiting out this stupid weather. Perhaps there will be some Summer PJs in her future, instead!
Wednesday, March 27, 2013
What I'm Reading: Built by Wendy Coats and Jackets
I mentioned earlier this week that I've been dreaming of lovely coats, to combat this everlasting winter funk. From the library, I picked up the book Built by Wendy Coats and Jackets: The Sew U Guide to Making Outerwear Easy (say that three times fast!).
I had previously read through one of the other books in this series (the book about knits) so I was familiar with the setup. The book comes with three template patterns (the official term is "slopers" I believe), and half the book is spent editing those templates to show variations. The other half is spent on general construction techniques for coats.
This is certainly not a beginner's book. It requires quite a bit of patternmaking skills (or at least comfort with them) and probably a fair level of construction skills as well. There are instructions for building the variations in the book, but they're not as detailed as a full-scale commercial pattern would be. I don't know about you, but when it comes to something complicated like a coat, I'd rather not wing it!
The biggest negative to this book seems sort of silly when I write it down, but it was still disappointing to me: there are no suggestions featuring lapels. This also means there are no pattern pieces for lapels. I guess I can understand the omission, but for someone who has been dreaming of a cool blazer, I wished for good lapel instructions.
Now on to the positives. There are TONS of variations on the patterns. And not just changes to length or sleeves, but completely different designs. It would be difficult to browse through the book and not come out with great ideas. The second thing I loved was that there were multiple suggestions of fabric and trim combinations. For example, instead of featuring a standard jean jacket alone, there were three different fabric ideas for varying seasons and looks. There are also styling ideas peppered throughout the text, so if you ever find yourself saying "now WHAT would I wear with this?" you won't be stumped here.
The half of the book that covered construction techniques wasn't too earth-shattering, though the tone is light and fun to read. If I'm not knee-deep in a project like making a coat, I'm not one to naturally retain construction techniques just by reading through them. I learn by reading AND doing at the same time. However, I think it's important to constantly be reading anyway, because repetition is your friend. I almost always walk away from a sewing book with a few tips and tricks that I hadn't thought of beforehand (I'd never thought about interfacing an entire piece of fabric before reading this book...makes me think of all kinds of ideas for my lightweight jerseys!).
If you're interested in making coats and you're not intimidated by adjusting patterns, then this book is for you. I think I'll be tracing off the slopers and setting them aside for later. I'll keep thinking about spring and hoping it gets here soon!
I had previously read through one of the other books in this series (the book about knits) so I was familiar with the setup. The book comes with three template patterns (the official term is "slopers" I believe), and half the book is spent editing those templates to show variations. The other half is spent on general construction techniques for coats.
This is certainly not a beginner's book. It requires quite a bit of patternmaking skills (or at least comfort with them) and probably a fair level of construction skills as well. There are instructions for building the variations in the book, but they're not as detailed as a full-scale commercial pattern would be. I don't know about you, but when it comes to something complicated like a coat, I'd rather not wing it!
The biggest negative to this book seems sort of silly when I write it down, but it was still disappointing to me: there are no suggestions featuring lapels. This also means there are no pattern pieces for lapels. I guess I can understand the omission, but for someone who has been dreaming of a cool blazer, I wished for good lapel instructions.
Now on to the positives. There are TONS of variations on the patterns. And not just changes to length or sleeves, but completely different designs. It would be difficult to browse through the book and not come out with great ideas. The second thing I loved was that there were multiple suggestions of fabric and trim combinations. For example, instead of featuring a standard jean jacket alone, there were three different fabric ideas for varying seasons and looks. There are also styling ideas peppered throughout the text, so if you ever find yourself saying "now WHAT would I wear with this?" you won't be stumped here.
The half of the book that covered construction techniques wasn't too earth-shattering, though the tone is light and fun to read. If I'm not knee-deep in a project like making a coat, I'm not one to naturally retain construction techniques just by reading through them. I learn by reading AND doing at the same time. However, I think it's important to constantly be reading anyway, because repetition is your friend. I almost always walk away from a sewing book with a few tips and tricks that I hadn't thought of beforehand (I'd never thought about interfacing an entire piece of fabric before reading this book...makes me think of all kinds of ideas for my lightweight jerseys!).
If you're interested in making coats and you're not intimidated by adjusting patterns, then this book is for you. I think I'll be tracing off the slopers and setting them aside for later. I'll keep thinking about spring and hoping it gets here soon!
Tuesday, March 26, 2013
Sewing Project: Ombré Dress
My last few sewing projects with commercial patterns have gone pretty well (a wrap dress for me, and a few dresses for AB) but I've also had some luck (both good and bad!) with making my own designs. Last week, I ordered some amazing pink and grey ombré jersey from Girl Charlee:
Sorry, you can't get your own, they're already sold out! I was happy to get even one yard. I decided to use some black jersey I had in my stash to supplement, and make myself a dress, using my own design. I'm so pleased with my results!
It was 52 and sunny the day I started sewing this up. The day I finished it (the next day) it was 30 and snowing. No fair!
The dress has a bit of a dropped waist (too much Downton Abbey lately!), a sort of fishtail/mermaid skirt, and a side-ruching detail. I call this dress "easy" because it's only two pieces, a top and a skirt. The side detail gives a lot of impact with very little effort.
The ombré on this knit runs selvedge to selvedge (meaning that the stretch of the fabric is perpendicular to the design). I knew that before ordering, but it was still somewhat of a challenge. I decided to keep it simple and was inspired by a dress I'd see from Anthropologie:
I made a simple tube top with an elastic casing at the top. For the width, I used the full yard and only sewed one seam in the center back. I cut the length of the fabric so that the darkest part of the ombré would hit at about where I wanted the black skirt to be attached.
The skirt is loosely adapted from Simplicity 1695. I say loosely, because I basically only used the shape of the curve for the high-low hem. Once I had the top and the skirt constructed, I pinned them together and then tried on the dress. I went through a few different looks, before I decided to turn the long part of the skirt to the side and then pull up on the short side. I've never ruched anything before, but I figured it was worth a try for this cute mermaid-esque silhouette.
It turns out that ruching is just a fancy word for gathering. I loosely gathered the side by hand, again playing around and pinning until I liked the look.
I remembered that a few of my RTW maternity shirts with side-ruching were stabilized with clear elastic, so when I permanently sewed down my gathers, I did so with clear elastic.
Like my inspiration dress, I incorporated some simple black straps (they're actually elastic!). So my stitches wouldn't show on the outside, I sewed them on before folding down the casing.
I'm always concerned with being able to nurse AB while wearing a dress, and these elastic straps (combined with the elastic casing) are perfect for breastfeeding access.
I love that this dress could easily go to the pool as a cover-up, or could be dressed up with some chunky jewelry and nicer shoes. It's perfect for summer...if only spring would get here first!
Sorry, you can't get your own, they're already sold out! I was happy to get even one yard. I decided to use some black jersey I had in my stash to supplement, and make myself a dress, using my own design. I'm so pleased with my results!
It was 52 and sunny the day I started sewing this up. The day I finished it (the next day) it was 30 and snowing. No fair!
Photobomb!
The ombré on this knit runs selvedge to selvedge (meaning that the stretch of the fabric is perpendicular to the design). I knew that before ordering, but it was still somewhat of a challenge. I decided to keep it simple and was inspired by a dress I'd see from Anthropologie:
I made a simple tube top with an elastic casing at the top. For the width, I used the full yard and only sewed one seam in the center back. I cut the length of the fabric so that the darkest part of the ombré would hit at about where I wanted the black skirt to be attached.
The skirt is loosely adapted from Simplicity 1695. I say loosely, because I basically only used the shape of the curve for the high-low hem. Once I had the top and the skirt constructed, I pinned them together and then tried on the dress. I went through a few different looks, before I decided to turn the long part of the skirt to the side and then pull up on the short side. I've never ruched anything before, but I figured it was worth a try for this cute mermaid-esque silhouette.
Obviously I have a future in modeling.
It turns out that ruching is just a fancy word for gathering. I loosely gathered the side by hand, again playing around and pinning until I liked the look.
I remembered that a few of my RTW maternity shirts with side-ruching were stabilized with clear elastic, so when I permanently sewed down my gathers, I did so with clear elastic.
Inside view.
Like my inspiration dress, I incorporated some simple black straps (they're actually elastic!). So my stitches wouldn't show on the outside, I sewed them on before folding down the casing.
I'm always concerned with being able to nurse AB while wearing a dress, and these elastic straps (combined with the elastic casing) are perfect for breastfeeding access.
I love that this dress could easily go to the pool as a cover-up, or could be dressed up with some chunky jewelry and nicer shoes. It's perfect for summer...if only spring would get here first!
Monday, March 25, 2013
Sewing Inspiration: Coats
Technically, it's spring. The calendar says so, but here in Indiana we've been in the 30's for quite some time. It snowed yesterday. What is going on??
Because of this unseasonably cold weather, I have been dwelling a lot on coats lately. It probably has something to do with the repair I recently made to my winter coat. Last time I was at the library, I spotted the book Coats and Jackets from the Built by Wendy series. It was probably a mistake, because I don't NEED a new coat, but now after seeing all the different styles, I WANT one!
On top of that, I'm sure you've all seen the most recent pattern release from Sewaholic, the Robson trench coat. True story: I was reading Tim Gunn's book A Guide to Quality, Taste, and Style (which I reviewed here) and he went over a list of essential items for your wardrobe. One was a trench coat. I was mulling it over, and thinking that I didn't have a trench coat and it might be fun to sew one, if only I could find the right pattern. Within ten minutes, I got the email from Tasia about the new pattern. Destiny? Probably. But right now, sadly, I have a few too many other projects on my plate. I see that trench in my future for next spring.
My favorite part of Threads magazine is their pattern review section. A few months ago, they featured an amazing bomber jacket from Sewn Square One.
You can buy the pattern here. It's really unique and anyone who could conquer it should have reason to be pleased with themselves.
Finally, I've been obsessing a bit over this ponte blazer from Lauren Conrad's line at Kohl's.
It's too bad I don't work in an office, then maybe I could justify owning something like this. It would be perfect for my previous job, because it has three-quarter sleeves. Back when I worked, I kept this sad fleece jacket at my desk, and I wore holes in the elbows from having my arms up on the desk all. the. time. I did find a similar blazer pattern from StyleArc patterns, the Marni jacket.
So there you have it, a sampling of what's been on my mind as I freeze to death in this weather. Did anyone make a coat this winter? I made AB one in order to get familiar with the process. It's not too bad, as long as you read the directions carefully and take your time. Has spring arrived yet anywhere in this world??
Because of this unseasonably cold weather, I have been dwelling a lot on coats lately. It probably has something to do with the repair I recently made to my winter coat. Last time I was at the library, I spotted the book Coats and Jackets from the Built by Wendy series. It was probably a mistake, because I don't NEED a new coat, but now after seeing all the different styles, I WANT one!
On top of that, I'm sure you've all seen the most recent pattern release from Sewaholic, the Robson trench coat. True story: I was reading Tim Gunn's book A Guide to Quality, Taste, and Style (which I reviewed here) and he went over a list of essential items for your wardrobe. One was a trench coat. I was mulling it over, and thinking that I didn't have a trench coat and it might be fun to sew one, if only I could find the right pattern. Within ten minutes, I got the email from Tasia about the new pattern. Destiny? Probably. But right now, sadly, I have a few too many other projects on my plate. I see that trench in my future for next spring.
My favorite part of Threads magazine is their pattern review section. A few months ago, they featured an amazing bomber jacket from Sewn Square One.
Finally, I've been obsessing a bit over this ponte blazer from Lauren Conrad's line at Kohl's.
It's too bad I don't work in an office, then maybe I could justify owning something like this. It would be perfect for my previous job, because it has three-quarter sleeves. Back when I worked, I kept this sad fleece jacket at my desk, and I wore holes in the elbows from having my arms up on the desk all. the. time. I did find a similar blazer pattern from StyleArc patterns, the Marni jacket.
So there you have it, a sampling of what's been on my mind as I freeze to death in this weather. Did anyone make a coat this winter? I made AB one in order to get familiar with the process. It's not too bad, as long as you read the directions carefully and take your time. Has spring arrived yet anywhere in this world??
Friday, March 22, 2013
Project Runway recap: spoiler alert!
Wow, we're getting down to the nitty gritty with contestants! Looking at the group in Lord & Taylor, you realize how few people are left. Quite frankly, I'm surprised by a few of them, and I'm not so sure there's an obvious winner.
I'd say this is the first episode where the team structure is really annoying me. Grudges are lingering, and it's starting to be more about drama than clothes. This is the time in the season (when the contestants are whittled down) that it's typically the opposite. Can we go to singles now?
For a ready-to-wear/production challenge, aren't the designers supposed to have a consult with a pricing specialist? I always find that aspect interesting, and I was sad that it wasn't touched on at all. Guess they ran out of time since they had to show us the Richard/Layana and Stanley/Patricia drama.
This challenge was sort of blah, but when they were talking about the rose theme, my first thought was "where's Ven?!". And that's now the second time I've mentioned him, and he's not even on this season.
I'm over Layana. I liked her print and her dress, but her attitude is such a downer. I do give her some class points for her runway statement that she wouldn't like to see a collection from Richard, rather than going the same route as last week and attacking his character (not creative, making excuses, etc.). I guess she saves that stuff for her interviews.
I agreed with the judges that Michelle's dress was the best of the bunch. I like chartreuse and it certainly would work with many body types, unlike Layana's, Michelle's, and to a certain extent, Daniel's (can you see anyone who isn't a model wearing that much of that color pink?). And while we're on it, I did like the pink. I HATED pink when I was younger, but I've come to appreciate it now. And nobody slammed Richard's pink, which seemed like it was the same exact shade.
All in all, this episode was a let down. Stanley's was boring, Patricia's was something I'd NEVER wear, and poor Samantha's risk-taking got her the boot. I was sure Richard would be out, but I guess Heidi's love of a maxi dress won out over the junior superhero look. For once I agreed with Layana, I would rather see a collection from Samantha than Richard.
Not too much longer to go in this season! I admit I'm rooting for Daniel. He has such a great spirit and aside from his cray cray meltdown this week, he's been nice to everyone. I hope he's racking up the good karma and can keep himself in it until the end. For what it's worth, I would have loved to see his jacket with a pair of shorts, as long as the shorts weren't also pink. I guess that makes me old. Ha!
I'd say this is the first episode where the team structure is really annoying me. Grudges are lingering, and it's starting to be more about drama than clothes. This is the time in the season (when the contestants are whittled down) that it's typically the opposite. Can we go to singles now?
For a ready-to-wear/production challenge, aren't the designers supposed to have a consult with a pricing specialist? I always find that aspect interesting, and I was sad that it wasn't touched on at all. Guess they ran out of time since they had to show us the Richard/Layana and Stanley/Patricia drama.
This challenge was sort of blah, but when they were talking about the rose theme, my first thought was "where's Ven?!". And that's now the second time I've mentioned him, and he's not even on this season.
I'm over Layana. I liked her print and her dress, but her attitude is such a downer. I do give her some class points for her runway statement that she wouldn't like to see a collection from Richard, rather than going the same route as last week and attacking his character (not creative, making excuses, etc.). I guess she saves that stuff for her interviews.
I agreed with the judges that Michelle's dress was the best of the bunch. I like chartreuse and it certainly would work with many body types, unlike Layana's, Michelle's, and to a certain extent, Daniel's (can you see anyone who isn't a model wearing that much of that color pink?). And while we're on it, I did like the pink. I HATED pink when I was younger, but I've come to appreciate it now. And nobody slammed Richard's pink, which seemed like it was the same exact shade.
All in all, this episode was a let down. Stanley's was boring, Patricia's was something I'd NEVER wear, and poor Samantha's risk-taking got her the boot. I was sure Richard would be out, but I guess Heidi's love of a maxi dress won out over the junior superhero look. For once I agreed with Layana, I would rather see a collection from Samantha than Richard.
Not too much longer to go in this season! I admit I'm rooting for Daniel. He has such a great spirit and aside from his cray cray meltdown this week, he's been nice to everyone. I hope he's racking up the good karma and can keep himself in it until the end. For what it's worth, I would have loved to see his jacket with a pair of shorts, as long as the shorts weren't also pink. I guess that makes me old. Ha!
Thursday, March 21, 2013
Upcycle Project: Underwear
I thought it would be a good idea to piggy-back on yesterday's post and show off what I've done, now that I've read up on sewing undergarments. If you've never sewn a pair of underwear, I highly recommend it. This was one of the most satisfying, quick, and easy projects I've done. I can't wait to make more!
Okay, this is probably not what you were expecting. However, I can explain. Wait. I can't. This material is from a t-shirt that belonged to my husband. I can't for the life of me remember when he got it, though I know it was probably back in our carefree college days. When we grew up and got real jobs, etc. etc. the poor beer shirt was relegated to my upcycle bag. Until now!
The best thing about this pair of underwear is that they are modeled after my most favorite pair ever, some pink Victoria's Secret panties. Sadly, both of my dogs have random bouts of Mustchewitallosis, and my favorite pair ended up with a hole in them. I made the difficult decision to rip them up and make myself an underwear pattern. While I still miss that wonderful pair, every time I put on these beer panties, I can remember the old pair and be happy.
Do not be fooled by their innocent faces.
My underwear pattern is only three pieces. A front, a back, and a crotch piece (of which you cut two).
Quick and easy to cut out, and using only a minimal amount of fabric. For reference, I had already used part of the beer shirt for another project, and I didn't even touch the sleeves. You can easily make a pair of panties out of any old shirts you have sitting around. Cotton and cotton/spandex blends will work best. My t-shirt did not have any spandex in it, so the lack of stretch meant that these ended up a tad bit on the small size. If you have a shirt without stretch, size it up a bit and you'll be fine.
To assemble, sandwich the back piece between the edge of two crotch pieces, with both crotch right-sides facing the back. Sew this seam.
Then take the outside or bottom crotch piece, and place it RST with the front piece.
Sew them together. The next part is tricky to explain, and makes more sense if you just do it. You're going to be joining the inside crotch piece to the front piece. Here is what it will look like finished.
The seams for all the crotch pieces are enclosed. To make that happen, take the inside crotch piece and bring it up to the front piece. Fold the end over so that the RS of the crotch piece is touching the WS of the front. You will need to sew "inside" of these layers. There are two ways to do this. First, pinch out that seam and pull it away from the other pieces, essentially turning the crotch inside out. The second way is to take the crotch piece in the opposite direction, around the panties, and around the top of the front piece.
Once you sew this seam and turn it all back right side out, you'll have the photo I posted above. Here it is again.
I promise that if you're confused, you're fine. It will work out when you try it. And if it doesn't, there isn't a rule that says your seams must be enclosed. You can just lay the end of the inside crotch piece on top of the front piece and sew it down. Since you're likely using a knit fabric, it won't fray. The only down side to this method is that your stitches will show on the outside, so use a coordinating thread.
The next steps can be done a few different ways. I'm just going to show you how I did it. If you do any research on the matter, you'll see that there are no wrong ways, just personal preference.
Next, I sewed up both side seams, RST.
The final step was to sew on the elastic. At this point, I did a fitting (sorry, no pictures of that!) and decided I wanted to maintain the current size of the underwear. In other words, I didn't want to fold down the top and make an elastic casing. You can certainly do it that way, but it will make the rise (distance from crotch to waist) shorter. Instead, I dug around in my elastic and found some with a pretty picot edge.
I sewed the elastic directly to the outside edge of my waistband, using a 3-step zig-zag stitch, and placing the picot edge just over the raw edge of the fabric. I did have to shorten my stitch width slightly to make sure it fit neatly inside the elastic. Since I had done a fitting and knew that the underwear was already snug, I only stretched the elastic a tiny bit as I sewed. You can just barely see the 3-step stitch since I used a matching thread.
If there were places where I didn't sew it on neatly, I simply trimmed away the excess fabric afterward.
My template pair of VS panties did NOT have elastic in the leg holes. I was surprised, because they always fit so well. Instead, they were finished by simply having the edge folded over and sewn in place. I could have used that approach on my leg holes, but I was concerned about the lack of spandex (I didn't want them to stretch out over time), so I went ahead and sewed elastic to the leg openings as well, using the same method I described above. The funny thing is that I accidentally used two different sizes of elastic. I ended up with a smaller width on the legs (3/8"), and a larger one (1/2") on the waist. I thought they were the same widths because they were lumped together and unmarked, but they were slightly different. It worked out, and in the future I'll probably use the same approach, except on purpose!
It may seem like there were many steps here, but honestly these were so quick and easy, I couldn't help but have fun making them. And what's better than wearing something you made, which is so useful? Maybe wearing something you made that only you know you're wearing? Sounds silly, but I bet if you try it, you'll love it!
Don't have a pair of hungry doggies eating your clothes and providing you with a free template? Try these instead!
For a free underwear pattern using woven fabrics, check out Madalynne.
For a free bloomers pattern, go to Coletterie.
For a wonderful tutorial on sewing panties, visit Very Purple Person.
Wednesday, March 20, 2013
What I'm Reading: Sewing Lingerie
Last week, I took AB to the library, and she was not happy about it. She's at an age where she wants to grab everything. She's particularly fond of books (mostly of damaging them) so I ended up with a frantic 5-minute grab-n-go session amongst the sewing books. Whenever that happens, I don't have time to browse, so I typically end up with some duds as well as some winners. One of the winners this week was Sewing Lingerie. Yes, it's super old, and yes, it's highly specialized, but I LOVED this book.
I've read a few other books in this Singer Sewing Library collection (my husband got me the one about sewing knits for Christmas), and I've enjoyed them all. Even though the photos are dated, Singer always finds a way to simply and succinctly explain techniques and terms. Reading this book made me want a huge pile of lace in order to make undies, camis, and slips. If you're looking for a resource for these kinds of items, see if your library has this book.
The book covers lace techniques ranging from cut-outs to appliqués to using it along hems. There are so many varieties that you'll be sure to come up with lots of easy ideas. I haven't worked with lace very much, but I want to, and after reading up on it, it's not so scary. As soon as I was done reading, I spent a good hour on ebay, zoned out and looking at all the pretty stretch laces. Drool...
In addition to underthings, the book also goes over related items like pajamas, robes, boxer shorts, traditional kimonos, and sleep bras. I may have to pick up one of those cheap used copies of the book on Amazon. And coming tomorrow, a project inspired by what I've read!
Tuesday, March 19, 2013
Sewing Project: Simplicity 2594
Today's pattern is one of my favorites, though I'm still working out the fitting kinks. It features many different views, most of which I would love to make (not so much that lace monstrosity!) and it will look good in a variety of fabrics (knits AND wovens, how often can you do that with one pattern?). Check out the 40 reviews over at PR if you need more convincing!
Per usual, the first time I sewed this up, I used a "I'm-not-SO-in-love" fabric, in order to have a wearable muslin. I promise I don't take this approach every time, but if it's a pattern I really like and think I'll be making a lot, I'd rather practice and get it right.
This is a lightweight cotton jersey from Girl Charlee, with watercolor florals. I mentioned last week that I have learned my lesson about floral prints. This top is part of the curriculum. It's a very pretty fabric, but it's not totally "me". I made view E (with length F), which has a V-neck, and I think that the combination of the neckline and the floral means that this top turned out too much like scrubs. Put me in a doctor's office and I'll fit right in.
Despite my reservations about the print, I've worn this blouse a lot. It goes well under a jacket in this cold weather, and the slight sheen to it (Girl Charlee called it a silk jersey, even though it's cotton) makes it look just dressed up enough that I would feel comfortable in any situation. It makes me kind of sad, that maybe I let the fabric down by forcing it into the wrong kind of pattern. And then I remember that fabric doesn't have feelings : )
There are a few details that make this much more interesting than a t-shirt. The back yoke extends over the shoulders and drops down in front.
The second detail I like is the pleats on the front. They aren't too forceful (especially in a busy print like this) so they lend a sweetness to the look.
The back is also nicely gathered for a loose fit.
And the best part: no set-in sleeves (at least in this view). I love this sort of extended shoulder/cut-on/kimono whatever you want to call it sleeve. All the benefits of covered shoulders, without any of the work of a sleeve.
Now on to the worst part of this pattern. It's huge. The ease is 7 inches! I had been warned by Pattern Review, and I took in as much as I could, but the construction (yoke and yoke facing without a real shoulder seam) made it difficult. The shirt was basically done before I could do a proper fitting. I recommend making any adjustments to the pattern pieces before you cut out. The same issues persist, however, that if you adjust the yoke, you need to also adjust the back, and the front. Overall, I wish the entire pattern would just shrink. I'm considering taking the pieces to Staples and copying them at 90%!
I definitely will be making this pattern again, and will make sure I don't use any other fabrics that look like scrubs material. I'd love to make it in a small-scale polka dot. Any one else guilty of making something that looks like it belongs in a doctor's office? Or, in my head, it makes me think of a vet's office (my sister is a vet tech). Any tips on shrinking a pattern all over?
Per usual, the first time I sewed this up, I used a "I'm-not-SO-in-love" fabric, in order to have a wearable muslin. I promise I don't take this approach every time, but if it's a pattern I really like and think I'll be making a lot, I'd rather practice and get it right.
This is a lightweight cotton jersey from Girl Charlee, with watercolor florals. I mentioned last week that I have learned my lesson about floral prints. This top is part of the curriculum. It's a very pretty fabric, but it's not totally "me". I made view E (with length F), which has a V-neck, and I think that the combination of the neckline and the floral means that this top turned out too much like scrubs. Put me in a doctor's office and I'll fit right in.
Despite my reservations about the print, I've worn this blouse a lot. It goes well under a jacket in this cold weather, and the slight sheen to it (Girl Charlee called it a silk jersey, even though it's cotton) makes it look just dressed up enough that I would feel comfortable in any situation. It makes me kind of sad, that maybe I let the fabric down by forcing it into the wrong kind of pattern. And then I remember that fabric doesn't have feelings : )
There are a few details that make this much more interesting than a t-shirt. The back yoke extends over the shoulders and drops down in front.
Back yoke extending to front.
Pleats.
The back is also nicely gathered for a loose fit.
Back gathers.
And the best part: no set-in sleeves (at least in this view). I love this sort of extended shoulder/cut-on/kimono whatever you want to call it sleeve. All the benefits of covered shoulders, without any of the work of a sleeve.
Now on to the worst part of this pattern. It's huge. The ease is 7 inches! I had been warned by Pattern Review, and I took in as much as I could, but the construction (yoke and yoke facing without a real shoulder seam) made it difficult. The shirt was basically done before I could do a proper fitting. I recommend making any adjustments to the pattern pieces before you cut out. The same issues persist, however, that if you adjust the yoke, you need to also adjust the back, and the front. Overall, I wish the entire pattern would just shrink. I'm considering taking the pieces to Staples and copying them at 90%!
I definitely will be making this pattern again, and will make sure I don't use any other fabrics that look like scrubs material. I'd love to make it in a small-scale polka dot. Any one else guilty of making something that looks like it belongs in a doctor's office? Or, in my head, it makes me think of a vet's office (my sister is a vet tech). Any tips on shrinking a pattern all over?
Someone wanted to be a part of the photo shoot.
And I'm happy to oblige.
Monday, March 18, 2013
Mend It Monday: winter coat
***Announcement! I've teamed up with Andrea over at Four Square Walls, and Trisha at Made By Trisha to take part in their S.O.S. (Stashbusting Our Sister fabric) challenge. We all have the same sister fabric, this navy nautical print from Girl Charlee:
The challenge is to use up this fabric and rescue it from stash-languishing oblivion. The results of our secret projects will be revealed on our blogs on April 2nd.
I think it will be really fun to see what we come up with, all using the same fabric. In my case, I have a scant 34" (I bought a "half yard" from GC and that's what arrived!). It's certainly been challenging deciding what to do, but I'm excited to reveal all on April 2nd! Here's a little sneak peek of where my project is going:
Normally on Mondays I write up a bit about my current inspiration, but I want to start doing something different, so hang with me for a minute. I know I'm not the only one who watches Downton Abbey (no spoilers, I'm still working my way through the DVDs!!!). Have you ever noticed that when the servants sit around talking, they're usually mending? It's also interesting that many of the characters wear the same clothing over and over, even (especially) the rich ones. Last week I realized that I had an ever-growing stack of garments that need fixing. For centuries, sewing has been a skill utilized for the very useful purpose of mending. Recent trends of cheap clothing have forced a decline in mending. If something is damaged, we typically think that it was so inexpensive that it's not worth fixing, and we throw it out. As an avid sewer, I'd like to pretend that I mend regularly and happily...but I'm just as guilty as any other consumer. So, I decided I should have "Mend It Monday," where I feature a mending project. Hopefully, this experiment will force some accountability on me, and I'll also be able to reclaim some of my favorite clothes (because it's always the favorites that become damaged!).
A quick note about education: if you feel a little lost with mending, or just need some inspiration, I highly recommend Mend It Better by Kristin M. Roach. I read it a few months ago and it's fabulous and adorably designed.
My first mending project is a coat that I purchased at Plato's Closet in 2010. It's from Abercrombie and I think it was around $30, so I felt like I was getting a fairly good deal. It's a wool blend with a quilted lining, so quite warm. I wore it pretty regularly that winter. During the winter of 2011, the zipper broke. I literally got stuck inside the coat for a while and needed my husband's help to get out! Right after that, one of my dogs chewed off one of the wood toggles. Not closing the coat worked for a while, because I was pregnant anyway. But as the winter progressed, I was TOO pregnant, so I switched to a bigger pea coat that accommodated my belly. The winter of 2012 rolled around, and I was no longer pregnant. But the zipper was still broken and the toggle was still missing. Fastening the remaining two toggles wasn't cutting it.
I examined the zipper to see if I could replace it with my new-found sewing skills. It appears to be sandwiched between two tightly topstitched layers of fabric. No good. Then I looked at the toggles to see if they could be replaced. Maybe, but I'd have to rip up the square patches holding down the loops and hope they went back on without looking cray-cray. Finally, I decided it would be easiest to just sew on some snaps.
I got these at Jo-Ann's for a couple bucks. They're 1/2", so I felt like they could withstand the rigors of outerwear. The instructions for sewing them on were simple. So simple, in fact, that Dritz didn't even need words to describe the process.
To figure out where to sew the snaps, I put on the coat and held it closed in various places near my neck, until I decided how high I wanted it to go. I marked it with chalk, and then measured from that spot to the end of the coat (there is already a small snap on the end). I divided the distance by 4 (the amount of snaps I had) and then placed marks evenly. The photo above shows that you should sew one hole at a time, but I found that the snaps were sliding around too much, so I put one quick stitch through each hole before going back over it more securely. I think I did about five stitches per hole.
The snaps are nice and bright and industrial-looking, and don't seem out of place at all on this jacket. I considered cutting off the zipper, but I'm glad I didn't, because the metal zipper and metal snaps go well together.
I didn't cut off the zipper, but I decided to cut off all the toggles. It just looked too obvious (and dumb) that one was missing. And bonus, now I have two nice wooden toggles to use on a different project.
I'm very happy with the results. Snaps, of course, are not as protective against the elements as a zipper, but I can live with that rather than buying a new jacket. I wore the coat this weekend, and it was surprisingly satisfying to know I'd saved it from a dust-filled destiny in the closet.
The challenge is to use up this fabric and rescue it from stash-languishing oblivion. The results of our secret projects will be revealed on our blogs on April 2nd.
I think it will be really fun to see what we come up with, all using the same fabric. In my case, I have a scant 34" (I bought a "half yard" from GC and that's what arrived!). It's certainly been challenging deciding what to do, but I'm excited to reveal all on April 2nd! Here's a little sneak peek of where my project is going:
Normally on Mondays I write up a bit about my current inspiration, but I want to start doing something different, so hang with me for a minute. I know I'm not the only one who watches Downton Abbey (no spoilers, I'm still working my way through the DVDs!!!). Have you ever noticed that when the servants sit around talking, they're usually mending? It's also interesting that many of the characters wear the same clothing over and over, even (especially) the rich ones. Last week I realized that I had an ever-growing stack of garments that need fixing. For centuries, sewing has been a skill utilized for the very useful purpose of mending. Recent trends of cheap clothing have forced a decline in mending. If something is damaged, we typically think that it was so inexpensive that it's not worth fixing, and we throw it out. As an avid sewer, I'd like to pretend that I mend regularly and happily...but I'm just as guilty as any other consumer. So, I decided I should have "Mend It Monday," where I feature a mending project. Hopefully, this experiment will force some accountability on me, and I'll also be able to reclaim some of my favorite clothes (because it's always the favorites that become damaged!).
A quick note about education: if you feel a little lost with mending, or just need some inspiration, I highly recommend Mend It Better by Kristin M. Roach. I read it a few months ago and it's fabulous and adorably designed.
My first mending project is a coat that I purchased at Plato's Closet in 2010. It's from Abercrombie and I think it was around $30, so I felt like I was getting a fairly good deal. It's a wool blend with a quilted lining, so quite warm. I wore it pretty regularly that winter. During the winter of 2011, the zipper broke. I literally got stuck inside the coat for a while and needed my husband's help to get out! Right after that, one of my dogs chewed off one of the wood toggles. Not closing the coat worked for a while, because I was pregnant anyway. But as the winter progressed, I was TOO pregnant, so I switched to a bigger pea coat that accommodated my belly. The winter of 2012 rolled around, and I was no longer pregnant. But the zipper was still broken and the toggle was still missing. Fastening the remaining two toggles wasn't cutting it.
I got these at Jo-Ann's for a couple bucks. They're 1/2", so I felt like they could withstand the rigors of outerwear. The instructions for sewing them on were simple. So simple, in fact, that Dritz didn't even need words to describe the process.
To figure out where to sew the snaps, I put on the coat and held it closed in various places near my neck, until I decided how high I wanted it to go. I marked it with chalk, and then measured from that spot to the end of the coat (there is already a small snap on the end). I divided the distance by 4 (the amount of snaps I had) and then placed marks evenly. The photo above shows that you should sew one hole at a time, but I found that the snaps were sliding around too much, so I put one quick stitch through each hole before going back over it more securely. I think I did about five stitches per hole.
The snaps are nice and bright and industrial-looking, and don't seem out of place at all on this jacket. I considered cutting off the zipper, but I'm glad I didn't, because the metal zipper and metal snaps go well together.
I didn't cut off the zipper, but I decided to cut off all the toggles. It just looked too obvious (and dumb) that one was missing. And bonus, now I have two nice wooden toggles to use on a different project.
Toggle-less
I'm very happy with the results. Snaps, of course, are not as protective against the elements as a zipper, but I can live with that rather than buying a new jacket. I wore the coat this weekend, and it was surprisingly satisfying to know I'd saved it from a dust-filled destiny in the closet.
What about you? What articles of clothing do you have wasting away for want of a small repair?
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