Foxy Patterns Emma Trousers

If you've ever done pattern testing, then you've probably felt that feeling of "thank goodness I'm done with this, I can't wait to move on". But when I tested the Emma Trousers from Foxy Patterns, all I wanted to do was make a second pair! (And TBH, I had the same feeling when I tested her first pattern, the Madison Blouse.) Here is my first pair of Emmas!

The Emma Trouser is a high-waisted pant with front and back yokes. It is meant for non-stretch woven fabrics and it comes with two leg options (slim and ankle length, or wide and full length). There is a curved or straight waistband (!!) and it's available in waist size 23"-55".

Sandra at Foxy Patterns has dubbed these "trousers", but to me they are solidly in the "jeans" category, especially in the slim leg. The wide leg was added after testing, so I might change my mind if I sewed that view.

Please forgive me for making these in black. I know you can't see details and I HATE when people test sew in black. So yeah, I hate myself right now lol. I do not typically buy non-stretch denim, so this cut was all I had that worked. It is from The Fabric Store Online (super old) and it has a slight stretch to it (didn't affect my sizing I don't think).

This is my test pair, and so there were changes made to the drafting after I sewed these. Namely, the hip curve was lessened (I have already changed it on my pair) and the curved waistband option was added to the pattern. Working with Sandra is such a joy; she is SO receptive to feedback from all her testers and includes us in troubleshooting. I did use my own curved waistband pattern (more on that in another post) but when I compared mine to the pattern's they were very close.

I made a size 8 hip grading to a 6 in the waist. From what I could tell during testing, fit was pretty spot-on for a non-stretch pant. They are surprisingly comfortable too!

Beautiful floral lawn from LA Finch Fabrics

I did alter the order/method of construction for finishing the waistband. I much prefer to sew bias tape to the inner waistband facing and then secure from the right side with topstitching. 

My pants are also not hemmed yet, I want to wash them a few times to get all the shrinkage out.

This top is a cropped Kila Tank in hemp jersey

I made a second pair of Emma Trousers from a very stretchy light-wash denim from Cali Fabrics. I'll drop a photo here but please be aware that these are WAY WAY different from the drafted pattern, and should not be taken as an example! I'll probably share these in a separate post.

This top is a Donny from Friday Pattern Company

Congratulations Sandra on a great new pattern! I'm excited to try the wide leg version now, too!

Sew DIY Eva Crop and Sundress

July landed me solidly in two different pattern tests at the same time. The first was the Madison Blouse (not blogged yet, I want to make it again from the final pattern), and the second was the Eva from Sew DIY Patterns. All versions of Eva have a super cool lace up back that I love!

Eva can be a crop top, a top with a peplum, or a dress with a skirt and ruffle. Bust sizing is from 30.5"-60.5", with 3 cup options. My bust is 33" and I made a size 6 in an A/B cup. I used a double border rayon challis from LA Finch Fabrics.

Eva is interesting because there are only two pattern pieces, and everything else is a rectangle. There is a big ole chart that gives the dimensions of the back pieces, the skirt, the peplum, etc. There is also a page to print to fill in the dimensions for your size. These pages are clearly marked in the pattern with a big circle that says "print this page!". I loved it, I thought the pattern was well-organized.

I highly recommend making a muslin of the bodice. The pattern directions walk you through the process way more explicitly than I've seen other patterns do. Eva does have flexibility in the fit because of the back. The back has two side panels with an adjustable middle panel. The middle panel has elastic in the top, and a lace-up tie. 

The pattern directions are super clear about when to stop and have a fit check. You'll have plenty of opportunities to check the strap length, and to adjust the back panel elastic. The back panel can be tricky since it's, well, on your back, so if you have someone else to help that's a plus. I did it alone though!

All the work for this pattern is in the bodice. It's completely finished (except the hem) and then you can decide whether you want it to be a crop top, to have a peplum, a skirt, a skirt+ruffle...really you've got lots of options. Again, these pieces are just rectangles. IMPORTANT to note however; the pattern is drafted for a height of 5'10". This is certainly taller than average, and it's 6" taller than me. I had a chat with the designer (her name is also Beth) during testing about how to adjust the pattern for much shorter heights. I haven't seen a final draft of the pattern so I'm not sure if any of my feedback made it into the directions.

I wanted to use the border for my ruffle, so I ended up removing 5" from the suggested cut height to accommodate. The skirt portion I shortened by 1". I did not change the bodice length because I have a long torso. The waist seam hits at my natural waist, perhaps just a touch below due to the weight of the skirt pulling it down. If you have an average or short torso you'll need to adjust.

This is the perfect sort of dress to throw on and eat tacos. Pull your ties tight in the back on your way out, then eat a ton of food and let them out again. I am wearing mine here with a strapless bra. I found that the straps had a tendency to move around (due to tightening and loosening the tie) and my bra straps were always showing somewhere.

Thanks to Beth at Sew DIY for choosing me for her test, and for compensating her testers. I was not asked to promote the pattern in any way and all opinions are my own!

Why I Chose a Juki MO-2800

Have you ever gone to an animal shelter to adopt a kitten or a baleful-eyed dog and been like, "oh my gosh, this is such a big decision, I can't decide, and they are all so adorable!" That's basically what it's like to pick out a second tier sewing machine. 

It's so easy to find a beginner machine. Just go to Amazon and type in "beginner sewing machine" and boom, there's the Brother CS-6000i. Type in "beginner serger" and boom, Brother 1034-d. A gajillion reviews and YouTube videos and all the info you could possibly need. But picking a SECOND tier machine? That's like picking a kitten.

Last year, my Brother 1034-d got a little finicky on a paid sewing job, and I had to take it in to the shop. It was the first time it had ever been serviced. It's never quite been the same after that. Last week, I once again broke the timing on it on the last six inches of another paid sewing job. It's a $300-$400 machine, and it just did not make sense to sink $100 into it for service again. I tried fixing it on my own (I've got an Instagram highlight saved if you need info on the proper way to fix the timing) but honestly, it felt like a waste of time.

After it broke the first time, I knew its days were numbered and I needed to start looking at an upgrade. But I was completely overwhelmed with options. I've always had Brother machines, but I didn't necessarily want another Brother. People love to talk about their fancy Babylock sergers, but fancy doesn't always mean best. I also did not need a combo machine because I have a dedicated coverstitch.

My first step was to search serger reviews on Pattern Review. I saw a lot of highly rated Juki machines. I went down the Juki rabbit hole and found three not-beginner sergers that were "reasonably priced" (in quotes because this is entirely subjective) between $1000-$2000 USD. Considering I made a $300 serger last 10 years, that price range seemed pretty acceptable.

I called the nearest Juki dealer, who is about an hour away. It also happens to be my favorite "local" shop, which carries high end apparel fabrics, indie patterns, sashiko supplies, all kinds of good stuff. They had the three machines I was considering available as floor models for me to try.

I went to The French Seam and spent some time with the owner reviewing these three machines:

Juki MO-1000, retail $1300

Juki MO-2000, retail $1500

Juki MO-2800, retail $1600

First impressions of all three machines: way better than my Brother. Each one had fantastic stitch quality. All three had air threading. The variety of stitch options was pretty much the same. 

The 1000 and the 2000 were almost identical in function, except that the 2000 has an LCD display to give you all the stitch settings without you needing to pull out the manual. 

The 2800 was the mack daddy of them all. Bigger machine. More space on the bed vertically and horizontally. Optional table add-on (didn't get it...yet). And one very, very important feature: a knee lift.

If I had never used a knee lift before, I probably would've been fine with the 1000. But I've been spoiled with the knee lift on my regular machine (Brother PC-420). I've tried to use other machines without a knee lift and I can't do it anymore. The knee lift is like a third hand when you're sewing. Would you pay an extra $300 for a third hand?

Turns out, I would. The MO-2800 should last me many years, and thinking about $300 spread out over a decade...yeah. Of course get the knee lift.

It is also quiet(er), and easy to thread, and it doesn't shake my sewing table. It's sturdy and sews beautifully. Of course, I'll update after more time, but for now I am thrilled with this machine!

Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory

There are a few sewing patterns that have achieved Platinum status. Ginger Jeans. Vogue 9253. Hinterland Dress. Ogden Cami. And the Zadie Jumpsuit!

If you haven't already made this pattern, you've got it on your list. It's one of those patterns that every time I see one, I think, that looks great on that person and I need to make one! But it wasn't until the Social Sewists at Workroom Social had a sewalong that I finally did it!

Disclaimer: I've been freelancing for Jennifer at Workroom Social for a few months. I have free access to the Social Sewists network and Jennifer purchased the Zadie pattern for me. That said, I was not asked to write or talk about the process and this is not a paid post.

During the Zadie sewalong, I attended as many of the live Zoom sessions as I could. I also appreciated that they were recorded, and I could watch them back later. Social Sewists is hosted on an app/website called Mighty Networks, which is easy and fun to use (no Facebook required). All the Zadie classes are neatly organized in one place.

The session on choosing a size for Zadie was SO SO SO helpful! Jennifer walked through different student measurements, compared them to the size chart, and discussed how the amount of ease might look depending on which size that person chose. 

I'm pretty sure everyone has heard that sizing on Zadie can be hard to nail down, which is what has always intimidated me about the pattern. But after the sizing session with Jennifer, I felt totally ready to start.

My measurements are 33-28-38. According to the chart, that would put me at an 8-10/12-10/12. There is 5 1/2" of ease in the bust, 7" of ease in the waist, and 8" of ease in the hips. That's...a lot. Many people in the class expressed concern about the dreaded saggy-butt look.

Printable Sewist's Notebook available on Etsy

I decided to muslin a size 6 (the smallest size) in the bodice and an 8 in the hips. Note that this is one full size down for each area (waist and hips I'm between 10 and 12). I have a long torso despite only being 5'4", so when I make a jumpsuit I do like to check where the waist is going to hit me. The pattern is drafted for 5'7" but spoiler alert: the bodice length was fine with no adjustments. If you have a short torso, definitely check that.

I highly recommend a muslin of the top with one pant leg. That's a weird thing to say, and mine was totally by accident (lack of fabric) but the one leg ended up being super helpful! Here's my single crappy photo that I took:

You can see here that the crotch curve is crazy deep. You do need the crotch to be low enough that you can sit down, but this looked bonkers low. 

There are lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern piece right through the hip line. Typically, you see those lines across the legs, so it was kind of weird that it was in the hip. As if the designer KNOWS that the crotch is too deep.

On my muslin, I pinched out 1 1/2" across the hips/crotch and made sure I could still move and sit down. I could, so I made the change to my paper pattern and got to work on my final version.

The fabric I used is a Barbie-pink washed linen from LA Finch Fabrics. While I love the color, and the fabric is very soft, it is sort of sheer. I ended up pairing a light pink bodysuit with the jumpsuit and it eliminates any issues with the fabric being see-through.

Once the fit issues are handled, the pattern comes together crazy fast. For a jumpsuit anyway. The directions are good and I had no issues with assembly.

Last weird thing about this pattern: the cross-over in front. I never understood how it worked until I had the pattern in hand. It's hard to explain in words, so check out this Reel I made showing how it ties and unties. It weirds me out a bit to have the center front cut all the way down to the crotch, but once again, the bodysuit underneath keeps everything locked up nicely.

I only had two yards of fabric, so I couldn't make the full leg version. I would sew this again to make the long pants. Maybe in a dressy fabric for a fancy jumpsuit.

If you're interested in learning more about the Social Sewists, you can read about it here. I could not believe how much I learned from one simple video about choosing a size! This is not an affiliate link, and I do not receive anything for sending you over there. 

Are you on the Zadie bandwagon, or still running to catch up? Let me know in the comments!

Payton Track Shorts

Indiana humidity is no joke. If you don't live in the Midwest, then I don't know if you can understand what it's like to swim through air. On these kinds of summer days, all I want is the smallest amount of clothing possible. May I present a solid winner in that category, the Payton Track Shorts!

Top is a Kila Tank. Or maybe a Durango.

I've been on a bit of a mission to find a pattern that you would call, well, booty shorts. I tried the Koko Shorts (for wovens) and I chose the wrong size. I was about to try that pattern again when Loni @havinsewmuchfun sent me a link to the Payton Track Shorts. They looked amazing and I bought the pattern, and sewed it up, ASAP. Payton is available in hip sizes 34"-61". There is also a children's version.

Lemme tell ya. These shorts are freaking awesome. I desperately wanted something that would hug my butt cheeks and let me pretend that I was 18 again (except I never dressed like this when I WAS 18). Since they are a knit they are so super stretchy and comfy. 

I had just received a bundle of fabric from iSee Fabric that contained some juicy maroon waffle knit, matching rib, and some cream rib knit. I used the cream rib for a Sommar Tank and had just a teensy bit left over. I live in a university town (the university that I attended) and our colors are cream and crimson, so these two fabrics work especially well!

This is my second time sewing with this waffle knit, and even though I adore it, it does not like my serger. I used a zig-zag on my machine for most of the seams.

The way these shorts are constructed is weird and interesting and unusual. I'm not sure I can even describe it, but whatever way I was imagining beforehand, I was wrong. Follow the directions and there will be a moment when it clicks.

There are a TON of options in the pattern as well. Mid-rise and high-rise (mine are mid), elastic or contour waistband (I chose elastic), three inseams (mine are shortie, there is also 3" or 6") and a variety of side panel designs. I went with the pocket on the side, but it was tempting to make the retro stripe version.

Sometimes patterns have so many options that it's confusing, but Petite Stitchery added a page that breaks down the choices and makes it simple. I think this is only my second pattern from this company and I thought the directions were great.

I did have some bunching along the front crotch (camel toe) and ended up messing around with the crotch curve quite a bit. It's been deepened from the pattern. I find that crotch depth in tight-fitting knit pants frequently gives me this camel toe problem. I'm not sure if it's me, or if that's just how people draft. You can see in the photo above that even after messing with the curve, it's not perfect.

I only wear these shorts around the house, but since I spend a lot of time at home anyway they spend a lot of time on me! I would make them again in a longer inseam for wearing around town.

And now, I will finish with a photo of my butt because it makes me laugh, and ~for science~ so you can see how revealing the shortie option is.

The End

Zoey Tank vs. Sommar Camisole

There are quite a few camisole patterns making the rounds right now, and you may be wondering which one is right for you. Two similar patterns I have tried are the Zoey Tank and Dress from True Bias, and the Sommar Camisole from Paradise Patterns. Today, I'm going to compare the two so you can figure out which one you need in your wardrobe!

In these photos, the blue top is the cropped Zoey in a size 4. The cream one is a full-length Sommar in a size C. My bust averages 33" and my waist 29". Both tops are made with rib knits from iSee Fabric (use my referral link to save $5!). I added trim to the front of the cream Sommar, it is not part of the pattern. The shorts are Landers. 

Size Charts

Sometimes, one pattern might work better than another simply because of the drafting block. Zoey is available in 0-18 or 14-32, bust 32"-59.5". Sommar comes in sizes A-P, or bust 28"-58". Here are the size charts for the Zoey and Sommar:

Zoey 0-18

Zoey 14-32

Sommar

Views

At first glance these patterns are super similar, but they do offer different looks. Zoey is a crop top, tank and a dress, and with the free neckline expansion you can have four neckline cuts as well. That's a lot of options!

Sommar is only a crop or tank, with only one neckline view. The main advantage of Sommar is that it comes with a built-in shelf bra option. There is no shelf bra for Zoey.

Fit

I find the fit of these tops to be close enough to call them "the same". I can't see myself using fit as a reason to choose one over the other. I would make my choice based on what kind of neckline I wanted, or if I wanted a shelf bra.

My bust and waist measurements don't usually fit neatly into a size chart (not since three kids) so I often end up splitting the difference and making a size in between. I also take the stretch of the fabric into account. The blue rib knit is a bit stretchier than the cream (it seems to be maybe a rayon blend instead of organic cotton). I could probably make a variety of sizes in either of these patterns but I'm happy with these.

Worth noting is that I think Sommar is drafted with longer straps, or to be lower cut. It's super easy to adjust the straps how you want, but as-drafted I wore my Sommar around a while and found my bust spilling out of the top. I went back and shortened the straps 3". And for the sake of transparency, it's possible I shortened my Zoey straps. I made it last year and therefore have no memory of what I did!

Construction

The construction method of these two is the same. The bodice is assembled and then binding is applied to the neckline, then binding is used as straps. I find this method pretty fiddly and annoying, to be honest, and I even have a coverstitch to make it easier. The results are nice, so maybe I'm just being a cranky old lady about the sewing.

Verdict

I like them both! I'm not sure one person needs them both, however. I received the Sommar for free after applying to be a tester for it. If you are comfortable hacking patterns, then you could add a shelf bra to the Zoey without much trouble. It has way more options so it gives you more bang for your buck. If I could only recommend one, it would be Zoey.

Have you made either of these patterns yet? Are you rocking crop tops as much as this old mother of three?

Pattern Hack: Using Trim as a Sleeve

This post is part of a series this month about the Anno and Pum Kids' Peasant Sleeve Top by Apparel Pattern Making. So far, I've shown how you can lengthen a blouse to a tunic, and how to sew French seams with a side seam split. The last hack for this adorable top is to swap the flutter sleeve for a cute pre-made trim sleeve.

As-drafted, the pattern calls for a cap sleeve on the top part of the armscythe, and the bottom part is finished with bias tape. This method replaces the cap sleeve portion with trim, and then finishes the entire armscythe seam allowance with bias tape.

You will need: the cap sleeve pattern piece, the bias tape pattern piece, some ready-made trim and either fabric or bias tape. My trim is vintage and thrifted from a garage sale, but it was the perfect match for this Tencel woven from Jo-Ann's. 

Line the trim up through the center of the pattern, and cut two pieces. 

Before sewing the trim to the bodice, you will need to finish the short ends of the trim. How you do this will depend on the trim, but I just folded mine down and sewed it with a simple hem.

Sew up the bodice until you have the shoulders joined, but before you sew the side seams.

Find the center of the piece of trim and place that on the shoulder sleeve, pinning or clipping it in place right sides together.

Sew the trim to the opening for the sleeve.

Sew the side seams, using the French seam hack if you want!

The binding for the armscythe seam allowance will need to be cut twice as long as the pattern piece. Right sides together, pin or clip the bias binding to the seam allowance, and sew directly over the previous stitching line from sewing the trim to the armscythe. 

Wrap the bias binding over the seam allowance and sew it down again, making sure you're only catching the seam allowances and binding and not the top itself.

You're done! From the outside, you will not see any stitching around the armscythe. If your seam allowances poke out at all, you can tack them down to the side and/or shoulder seams to keep them from rolling out.

This tunic will be my daughter's Easter outfit this year, and she's so excited about it!

I am a freelancer for Anno and Pum Patterns and received this pattern for free.