Friday, November 13, 2020

Buffalo Plaid Cheyenne Tunic

 Well friends, the World's Biggest Hey June Fan* finally made one of the most popular HJ patterns. May I present, the perfect Cheyenne Tunic.

*title determined by myself only

If you look through my old posts or my IG feed, you will see my obsession preference for knit tops. I like to be comfortable, and I've always felt like woven tops are too restricting. I may become a convert after making up this top, however.

The Cheyenne Tunic can be made in a more simple, 3/4 sleeve length with a half placket and mandarin collar. I chose the long sleeve with tower placket and cuff, full button placket, and collar with stand. The last time I made an all-out button up shirt was...seven years ago? And my oh my is that shirt a disaster. This one is made much better!

The instructions are impeccable as always, and there is a sewalong online. I am a fairly experienced sewist, but I still had to redo one sleeve placket because my sewing was 1/4" off. I know a lot of people like sewing button ups, because they are technical and methodical, but I don't think that's me. Waaaaay too many opportunities to screw up!

I've been wearing this top for two days straight. The fabric is a deadstock flannel from LA Finch Fabrics. I did add a tiny scrap of Liberty of London lawn on the collar stand. 

My preferred way to wear the top is unbuttoned over a knit shirt (I just can't quit the knit tops). If I wanted to wear it as a stand-alone button up, I think I would actually size down. This one is a small, my normal HJ size, with no mods. 

I can't wait until I've worn and washed this shirt into a floppy favorite!


Monday, November 2, 2020

Oslo Coat Resources

Coat-making is a daunting task for more than one reason. It can be hard to source all the proper supplies. This post will outline what I used for hand-tailoring the Oslo Coat. From fabric, to interfacing, to thread, it's all here!

BOOKS



My first foray into hand-tailoring found me deep into many different sewing books. Here are the ones I used:

Singer Sewing Reference Library: Tailoring--This book is by far my most useful reference. The content is identical to a book called Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket. The book covers the three kinds of tailoring (by hand, by machine/fusibles, combination of both). There are a lot of full color photos and the text is excellent.

Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing--The sewing Bible, I consulted this one for the different types of bound buttonholes.

The Complete Book of Tailoring by Adele P. Margolis--Another classic that served mainly to reinforce what I'd learned in the above Singer book.




FABRIC

Main fabric: wool/mohair/nylon boucle coating from Fabric Mart, 2019

Lining: Pongee Plush Anti-Static Lining in Burgundy (100% polyester) from Vogue Fabrics, 2020

Heavy cotton flannel: Organic Cotton Plus, 2016

Lightweight sew-in interfacing: sourced locally, but I believe it is the light version found here from Wawak

Heavyweight sew-in interfacing: bought from Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics, 2019

Knit fusible interfacing: Pellon, sourced at Jo-Ann's



NOTIONS

Silk thread: Gutterman, sourced at Jo-Ann's

Polyester thread: Gutterman, color matched via Fabric Mart

Roll line tape: found locally, but I believe it is this from Wawak

Button: vintage, found locally

Raglan shoulder pads: made by me using heavy flannel and upcycled wool scraps

Tag: Kylie and the Machine


Check out my other two posts reviewing the pattern, and discussing tailoring techniques!