Anthropologie Cardigan Knock-Off

I recently noticed a gaping hole in my wardrobe when it came to a lightweight summer cardigan. Y'know the kind, usually lacey or knitted, drapey, looks gorgeous on the model? A little oversized and oh-so-snuggly? Perfect for wearing around the campfire? Right before my vacation I went to a second hand store with that specific vision in mind and managed to find the cardigan of my dreams.

It's grey, so obviously amazing, with a cool pattern to the knit. It fits like a dream and is a great weight. According to the tag and Google, it's originally from Anthropologie. The only problem with buying second hand is, obviously, there aren't any more! (Not that I could afford full-price Anthro anyway.) Luckily for me, I can sew, and can fumble my way through copying a relatively easy garment. I had a lightweight sweater knit in my stash and was able to make a second perfect cardigan. I couldn't be happier with it!

The fabric is from Urban Rag Trader on Etsy. It's an amazing black/grey/silver mix and it matches everything in my closet. I've sewn with open sweater knits before (here and here) so I had some idea of what I was getting into. This one turned out to be pretty easy to cut and sew, I'm not exactly sure why. It didn't curl or shed much. It's a rayon blend and took well to pressing. I made sure to give myself a 1/2" seam allowance, any less would have made sewing much harder. I constructed it on my serger, making sure to lighten the presser foot pressure and turn up my differential feed.

To draft the pattern, I used Swedish tracing paper laid underneath half of the Anthro cardigan and traced around the edges, then added seam allowance. The sleeves are kimono with a machine knit single-layer cuff (I added a traditional double-layer cuff instead). The front edge is finished with machine knit single-layer ribbing, I used double-layer self-fabric. The front edge is simply a rectangle, so I measured that with my tape measure and added seam allowance. The back has a shaped center-back seam, which I basically drew free-hand after studying a similar seam on the Fiona cardigan. The bottom of the original was finished with single-layer ribbing as well, instead I simply cut a bit longer and hemmed by hand after serging the raw edge. It ended up a bit shorter than the original as well.

I didn't notice until I laid out the original, but the front edge is not straight up and down, it actually curves gently outward towards the bottom. That curve creates the lovely draping in the front, which you can see below. The only downside to this outward curve+kimono sleeve is that they made the pattern piece fairly wide. I struggled to fit my piece onto my fabric, so the sleeve is maybe a touch shorter than I would prefer. It worked out fine, but it's something I need to note moving forward with any other sweater knits. Sometimes those knits run narrow (this one is 50").

I've had a lot of sewing fails in the past, so it felt amazing to be so successful with a garment that I drafted myself. The fabric was definitely intermediate level but I was able to tame it (I guess after five years I can call myself an intermediate sewist haha). An all-around giant win! If you're interested in copying RTW garments and making your own patterns, check out my review of Stephanie Lincecum's Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit or check out her class on Craftsy.

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Fabricista Fashion Challenge Week 3: Inspired by RTW

Wow did I love this challenge! Our week 3 objective was to select one of our favorite ready-to-wear items and create a pattern from it, then to sew a duplicate garment. Copying RTW is one of my favorite things to do, so obvs when I got this challenge I was stoked. My first thought was to replicate a J. Crew sweatshirt that I love, but my husband said "uhhh...didn't you just make a sweatshirt last week?" Touché. Instead, I decided on a dress from Target that I bought about 3 years ago. (Head over to the Fabric Mart blog to see the rest of this week's entries.)

Remember my obsession with the Make It Perfect Coastal Breeze dress? It started from here. I've always wanted to duplicate this garment, so I was pretty happy that this was our week 3 challenge. This dress does have a secret, though: it's a maternity dress!

I don't think you can tell just by looking at it. And I've worn it a lot since AB was born 2 1/2 years ago, so, yeah. I couldn't bear to pack it up! There are a few details that I particularly like, including a shirred waistband, a built-in modesty panel, and the cowl neckline. The fabric is also heavy enough that I can wear it with leggings well into the fall and winter (with a coat).

For the Fabric Mart contest, we were asked to write a blog post detailing how we created our pattern. I've read and own Steffani Lincecum's book on the rub-off method (review here) and I've used the method successfully in the past. However, I also know from experience that you can't really rub-off a cowl neck (proof). It's also a poor method for gathered fabrics since you have to stretch them out, and inevitably you'll have inaccuracies. I ended up using a combination of rub-off techniques, measuring, pattern-hacking, and straight guessing!

A toddler who steals your stuff is optional.

I started with the back since it's the most simple piece, and I pulled out my MIP pattern to compare. I've already altered this pattern so it fits my narrow shoulders and I wanted to start with something I knew. I traced a new copy and then altered it to more closely resemble the base dress (shortened the sleeve, narrowed the bodice, and shortened the bodice).

Next, I traced the shape of the underarm, sleeve, and shoulder onto a new piece of paper to start drafting the front. It's important that the underarm of the front and back are the same length, and the shoulder seams are close to the same (you can get away with easing the front to the back just a little). 

Then it was time to shape the cowl, and things got tricky. I pulled out McCall's 6752 which has a draped neckline, though to less of a degree than I needed. I basically copied the shape over with extra cowl height (or depth, depending on how you look at it).

At this point I made a muslin of the bodice, and thank goodness I did! It looked terrible. The neckline was much closer to a boat neck than a beautiful cowl. After staring at it a while and consulting the McCall's pattern, it seemed that I needed more width across the chest. I cut my muslin vertically at CF and spread it out over my chest. Much better. I went back to my pattern and added 3 inches in CF (on the fold, so 6") then made another muslin to confirm my changes. The bodice was done!

On to the shirring! Confession: I've never shirred anything before, though I have elastic thread on hand. I've read about it but refreshed my memory with this tutorial from Made By Rae. I hand-wound the bobbin and got to work on some tests. Miraculously I had no issues and found a ratio of about 2:1 worked. In other words, I shirred 5" of fabric and when it was shrunk to 2.5" it looked like my inspiration dress. I measured the finished dimensions of the shirred front and back, doubled the width, and added two seam allowances. I measured the height of the WB and noted the amount of rows of shirring and distance between them, then added two seam allowances. Waistband done!

The skirt was tricky. I have zero experience with maternity sewing since I didn't learn how to sew until after AB was born. A few quick measurements showed me that the front of the skirt was 10 inches wider at the hem than the back of the skirt. You need the extra width to accommodate a growing belly. At this point, I had a choice to forget all about the maternity aspect and draft the front to match the back (that's how the Coastal Breeze is drafted, for example) or to go ahead and try to figure it out. I decided to figure it out. I love how the front drapes and I wanted to be able to recreate that. Everyone needs a little help hiding a big lunch now and then!

Here was the problem: the top of the skirt front and back seemed to be the same width (it was hard to tell exactly since they're gathered into the waistband). But the hem width was 10" different. This meant that the front skirt panel had an A-line shape, and the back seemed to be a rectangle. Obviously, the side seams were the same length. I did a few small-scale tests to see if it was at all possible to sew an A shape to a rectangle, and it worked out okay...the bigger the difference between the hems, the bigger the difference between the side seam lengths. I know there's some maths involved here, but y'know...maths. I got an A in Geometry but I didn't learn a damn thing. I ended up laying out three or four measuring tapes on the floor and arranging them until I had a shape that worked.

I've been told I have the handwriting of a 4th grade boy.

Last but not least, the hem is tiered (see collage photo above). The pieces are rectangles sewn together to the bottom of the skirt panels. I measured them (front and back are different by 10" as mentioned above) and added seam allowances. I've always loved the hem on this dress because it's heavy. The bottom tier has a 3" hem allowance!

Did I say the hem was last? I lied. The modesty panels inside the bodice also needed drafted. There is both a front and back. I hate wearing camis with dresses because there's nothing to tuck them in to, so they always ride up. I love this panel because it eliminates the need for a cami, plus you can bend over without fear of the cowl neck draping and showing off your ladies. I drafted these pieces by placing paper on top and sketching around the edges, then added seam allowances. I sketched them in roughly by eye...not the most accurate choice, but fast, and I do it often enough to be halfway confident. Normally I prefer to put the garment on top of the paper, but since this piece is attached to the outside bodice, it wasn't really possible.

It took me basically a whole day to draft the pattern for this dress, working on and off with my 2 year old adding her special brand of help. It took another half a day to draft the cutting layout and write an order of construction.

Cutting layout

Construction order

Luckily I had stash fabric that was perfect for this dress. It's a cotton/rayon/spandex knit that I already had earmarked for a dress of some sort. I chose it because the weight and feel was very close to the original. I needed a fabric with weight for a good cowl, and something sturdy enough to withstand shirring. I was very pleased with how this fabric held up, and c'mon, it's freaking gorgeous! It's from Girl Charlee but since I've had it a year...it's sold out, sorry!

With all the planning done, I sewed like a madwoman! As expected, the shirring took quite some time, since you have to hand-wind the bobbin, and I sewed 5 rows basically a full 60 inches. Then you have to pull the threads to gather it. Phew! I love the effect, but it will be a while before I try it again. After a few days of hard work, I had my completed dress!

The seams are sewn on my serger, and the hems are coverstitched. The back neckline is finished with French binding, matching the inspiration dress (I wrote a tutorial on French binding here).

The cowl edge is serged. The modesty panel is sewn to the waistline at the bottom, and handsewn into the ditch of the shoulder seam at the top. Wherever possible, I matched the finishing of the original dress, including stabilizing the waistline seam with clear elastic.

Copying this dress was an amazing challenge, and I can't tell you how awesome it feels to be wearing an exact replica of something I've loved for a long time. I learned a lot, tried some new things, and now I have a beautiful dress to show for it! If you like what I've done, I'd love it if you trekked over to the Fabric Mart blog and voted for me. Voting opens Wednesday and closes Thursday night, with the winner announced Friday.

Perfect Slouchy Tank

Tuesday I reviewed the book Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit, which explains all about the rub-off method (aka copying) of making patterns. Inspired by what I had read, I decided to get off my butt and finally make a pattern for my most favoritist tank top. Actually, my two most favorites, but one of them went MIA when it was time for the photoshoot, soooo...here's one.

I bought these two knit tanks...when I was in college? I think. I remember grabbing them on the way to the checkout and being super happy because they were like, $3 a piece. I have worn these two shirts far more than Old Navy ever intended them to be worn. There was just one little thing...they were too low-cut. Whomp whomp. I have to wear another, more fitted tank underneath, or I feel a bit too exposed. Even the college version of myself felt that way (I'm a prude).

So what do you do when you can sew? You draft your own pattern and raise the neckline! I call this pattern the Perfect Slouchy Tank.

I figure this was a good first-time copying project because the design is SO simple. Two pieces, that's it. Oh, sorry, three pieces with the pocket (the rogue shirt has a pocket, promise). It probably took longer to write the construction steps than it did to draft the pattern.

The inspiration tanks have some strange finishing techniques that I fully intended to copy. For example, the neckline and armholes are bound, and then the binding is cut, causing it to curl at the edges:

The side seams (and hem) are done with a flatlock stitch:

I DID copy the flatlocking, I did NOT cut my bindings. Once they were on there...I couldn't bring myself to do it. I spent forever coverstitching them on, and they looked so nice it seemed a shame to cut them. I also coverstitched the hem instead of flatlocking it. I'm not sure my machine could replicate that anyway.

I had some trouble flatlocking so it doesn't look as close to the inspiration. Basically, my tension was too high (even though it was at the recommended level per my manual) and the thread kept breaking. Decreased tension led to the flatlocking not working. Couldn't win.

Despite not being exact copies, I'm crazy about these two new shirts. The raised neckline is perfect. The fabrics are super soft drapey rayon knits (a b*tch to sew but oh so dreamy to wear!). I even fulfilled a few of my Wardrobe Architect capsule collection requirements (loose tops in blue).

I used hoarded scraps of two of my all-time favorite fabrics (the tribal knit and the feathers) as well as some of the endless yardage of blue knit from my stash (courtesy of a bargain lot from Girl Charlee). What's not to love about these tops!? Oh, here's one thing. Let's talk about the tribal knit version.

Do you see what I see? Perhaps it's a sewist thing to even notice...but I promise I tried really hard to avoid boob headlights. I had barely any fabric (hence why the back of the shirt is solid blue) and I could only shift my pattern piece up or down a little bit. I added the pocket to try distracting from the headlight look and I think it helps a little.

What do you think? I see myself living in these two tops this summer and I can't wait! These were actually supposed to be wearable muslins to test the pattern, I wanna make another in this knit which is waiting in my stash.

Speaking of awesome tank tops, the Rio Racerback Tank and Dress pattern is now available from Peek-a-Boo Pattern Shop! Save 15% today only on this super cute design. This pattern might even inspire me to start sewing for AB again!

Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit

I've gone full circle with patternmaking.

Okay, maybe I've made ONE circle, I'm sure there are more loops to follow. When I first started learning how to sew, I placed little value in patterns. I had limited funds and skills and decide to follow tutorials on Pinterest as much as possible to teach myself. I mean seriously, how easy does Pinterest make EVERYTHING look? I also tried drafting my own patterns. I'm stubborn, so it took a couple of failed projects before I "broke down" and bought a commercial pattern, which of course worked fine and was way better than the terrors I was constructing (need an example?).

Almost two years later, I'm back into drafting my own patterns (thus the full circle). For a looooong time, I've had the book Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit (affiliate link) on my Amazon wish list. My parents were gracious enough to buy it for me for my birthday in February, and I finished it up a week or two ago.

This book is written by Stephanie Lincecum, who is a costume designer as well as an instructor on Craftsy. I think the title alone is a tad misleading, as you won't be patternmaking starting from scratch. This book is for anyone who wants to copy garments they already own. If you have clothing that fits well, why not copy it? I have a ton of RTW clothing that I adore either as-is, or love except for X, Y, Z reason.

After going over basics like tools, measurements, and knits vs. wovens, the book dives into patterning skirts, dresses, blouses, and even handbags. The step-by-step directions are very well-written and managed to be succinct without leaving things out. I wouldn't say I'm a visual learner per se, but a few times I found myself wishing there was a photo or diagram to explain the text further. I like a good combination of words and photos and sometimes there weren't as many pictures as I'd like.

After explaining all the details of copying a particular garment, Stephanie shows you how to alter your pattern to change up the look. She also touches on some minor fitting adjustments, though it's not the emphasis of the book. The point is to start with a garment that fits well in the first place.

It probably wasn't necessary in a book about patterning, but Stephanie also goes into detail about actual construction of garments. Don't skip these parts--she's not an experienced costume designer for nothing! There are great tips for efficient sewing that will make you say "why didn't I think of that?"

The biggest drawback to the book is a lack of information about pants. I got to the end and was like "am I missing something...pants!" There isn't even an explanation for why the topic wasn't addressed. I think it's cool that handbags are included, but I would have gladly given that up for a chapter about pants instead. Perhaps it's too complicated?

I learned a lot from this book, but possibly the most important thing it did was to get me to TRY. I have quite a few items in my closet that I've been dying to copy, and I kept making excuses and putting it off. Basically, I was afraid of failing. This book showed me that it can be done, and how to do it properly. Thursday I'll be showing off the results of what I've learned, with my first true rub-off-self-drafted-altered-RTW design! See you then :)

What I'm Reading: Patternmaking for Menswear

There were a few books I was dying to receive for Christmas, and my husband came through big time! At the top of my list (okay, let's be real, there were 5 things at the top) was the book Patternmaking for Menswear. I first saw this book on Instagram, via Andrea at four square walls. Then I read Peter's review on Male Pattern Boldness and had. to. have. it.

This book reminds me a lot of the Sew U books by Wendy Mullin. The beginning introduces slopers (in this book, an upper body, a sleeve, and pants) and then shows how to alter a flat pattern for a completely different look. There are 20 different variations on the slopers and details on how to draft them. You'll find everything from a knit polo to outerwear.

Obviously, the bulk of the work is in drafting the slopers, but this book gives a thorough explanation of how to do it. All without the trouble of bust darts : ) There's also information about grading and some industry processes. One thing that is NOT in this book is information on construction and actual sewing. This is strictly a patternmaking book, and a very detailed one at that!

I think we're all amazed at how a boring, boxy sloper can evolve into something like, say, a hoodie. It's one part good design, and ten parts math, from the looks of it!

I'm not overly fond of math, but I don't mind using it for the sake of menswear drafting. The current men's pattern options are beyond sad. If you've ever tried to sew for men, you already know that. Pajama pants! Scrubs! Fleece vests! Thanks Big 4. I definitely want to focus on sewing for my husband this year, and in order to do that well I will need patterndrafting skills. I'm grateful to have this book on my shelf as a reference. I don't think he'll be asking me for an anorak anytime soon, but it's still cool to know how to draft one!