Wednesday, April 24, 2019

Papercut Patterns Palooza Part 2: Pneuma Tank

Welcome back to Papercut Palooza, my attempt to catch up on all my Papercut projects that haven't yet made their way to the blog. Today, it's the Pneuma Tank!

The Pneuma is pretty unique and easily recognizable in the sewing world. This tank top has a built-in bra, a drapey overlay with open sides, and has elastic straps in a cool crisscross back. I've made two of these and cannot wait for the hot summer weather to be here for these!

I know I'm not the only one with super thin, lightweight knits in my stash. I always fall in love with them, and then never know what to make that can be so see-through. Until now! The Pneuma is absolutely perfect, because the bra is a feature of the tank and is meant to be seen. Doing tree pose on a tree (please tell me you've watched Free Solo and get that reference...), hiking through the woods, or just getting ice cream, this top is awesome.

I made a size XXS, which is typical for me in Papercut. However, I have wide hips and was concerned about keeping the proper drape, so I slashed and spread both the front and back pieces. I added a total of 2" of sweep at the hem. I did not hem the underarms or the bottom because lazy, but also because it would've been a nightmare on this lightweight rayon knit. The bra band was modified for 3/4" picot elastic, instead of 1" enclosed elastic, because that's what I had on hand. The straps are black bra strapping from Sew Sassy Fabrics.

The bra fabric is double brushed poly that I've had for years, and couldn't figure out what to do with it. I know it's become all the rage, but I honestly hate polyester. I can handle it in this small amount though!

The second version I made, I wanted to experiment with the hem, but I'm still not sure exactly how I want to finish it.

I straightened the side seams a bit compared to my previous version, so that the hem would be straight at the bottom instead of curved up. My idea was to add a band to the bottom, to prevent the top from floating down during exercise. But my rayon knit doesn't have good recovery, and I abandoned that idea.

The bra portion of this top is leftover banana leaves swim knit from The Fabric Fairy. I also made a swimsuit, which will be on the blog next week. The fabric is sold out, which is too bad, because it's amazing!

I again modified the bra elastic finishing to use what I had on hand that matched. I used picot elastic on the front and underarms. The straps are again from Sew Sassy Fabrics. The rayon portion is unhemmed like before. This top is a SUPER quick sew without the hemming.

What are you waiting for? Go buy this pattern!

Wednesday, April 10, 2019

Papercut Patterns Palooza Part 1: Pinnacle Top

Ever look at your pile of unblogged items and realize half of them are from one pattern company? Just me? I’m declaring April the month of Papercut Patterns. I have two Soma Swimsuits, two Pneuma Tanks, and two Pinnacle Tops to blog! So let’s get to it.

Somehow, I overlooked the Pinnacle Top when the pattern first launched. I don’t know how, because it’s 100% up my alley. I love dolman sleeves and geometric details. I also love versatile patterns, and this one can be made in a woven or a knit. A sweatshirt or a woven top from one pattern? Count me in!

Yes, I'm standing inside a tree. Apparently, there used to be a 
fence here (the barbed wire is in the bottom left 
corner of the photo!) and the tree grew around it.

First up is the woven top, which is View 1. This is a cropped shirt with short dolman sleeves and it has no closures. View 2 is the same top, but with a higher neckline and a tie opening in the back so it can go over your head.

I had saved an image on Pinterest that I fell in love with, and after lots of searching I realized this pattern was pretty darn close to it.

The shorts are coming too eventually, but we're not quite into shorts weather yet. The top came out so amazing and looks just like my Pinspiration. The fabric I used is Avery Slub Linen from La Mercerie and I have it in FOUR colors. It is THAT amazing. This rust-red colorway is super pretty, and a lot different from anything else in my wardrobe.

View 1 was actually my second version. First, I made the sweatshirt, View 3. I had some pink French terry in my stash that I had originally bought for a Brunswick muslin, but I was so excited about that pattern that I didn't muslin. This French terry is a cotton/poly blend from Jo-Ann's, and normally I would turn my snooty nose up at something like that. But, it has a decent amount of stretch and recovery, is lightweight, and has held up so far through LOTS of wear and washing.

I used the reverse side of the fabric, the loopy side, for the triangles, the neckband, and the sleeve cuffs, just for some visual interest. It would be super fun to use a contrast fabric for those pieces.

View 3 is the same as View 1, except it has a bottom band, longer sleeve, and sleeve cuffs. Both of my tops are size XXS, which still includes plenty of ease and seems to be my normal Papercut size.

The way the Pinnacle is constructed is pretty clever. There is no shoulder seam. The bodice/sleeve piece is one giant piece that folds over your shoulder. There is a simple center back seam, then you join the fronts using the triangle pieces. I found the directions to be great in explaining it all, but you should definitely baste to make sure your triangles match up correctly. Do keep in mind, because the bodice is one long flipped piece, you can't use a directional fabric for those pieces (which is probably why you don't see many prints if you search for images of this pattern).

View 1, the woven top, is finished with a facing and topstitching. I did not interface my facing because I was worried about affecting the drape of the top. That might have been a mistake as I do have some waves along the neckline, but they're minor. I think next time, I might use a walking foot to attach my triangle pieces. I didn't think about it until I was sewing, but those seam lines are on the bias and it can be easy to stretch them accidentally. The point of my V didn't come out super sharp but I'm not sure how noticeable it is.

Elephant in the room: View 1 is low-cut AND cropped. That's a lotta skin. I'm wearing a cami in my photos but that was more for warmth than modesty. All the bras I tried were visible without a cami. Naturally, that means I'm working on a bra to purposefully wear with this top. The fabric is SO dreamy that I want it near my skin, I don't really want a cami underneath, especially once the weather warms up. So stayed tuned to my IG for however that works out.

I love, love, love, love this pattern. I've been reaching for both of these tops in different situations, and I can't wait to make more!

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