Tuesday, January 17, 2023

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

Apparently, lightning does strike twice. My first pair of Ash Jeans (flared view) turned out amazing. I almost doubted whether they could be that good again. Guess what. They can.

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

I've long needed a pair of nicer looking, trouser-esque jeans. I decided to try Ash again in the wide-legged version. I made the same size as before, a 6. This Tencel denim is totally bonkers and is fused/lined with French Terry. I'm serious. It was a score from LA Finch Fabrics (who else?) from two years ago. I previously made a pair of Yanta Overalls with it, and I liked it so much I went back and ordered more. I was worried about the stretch, but it turns out it worked fine for this pattern. I had totally forgotten it was Tencel but that explains why it's so soft!

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

Because I wanted these to look fancier, I skipped a lot of the contrast topstitching, omitted the belt loops and the leather patch. I also did not add rivets. Construction went a lot faster than normal because I wasn't switching back and forth among my machines for topstitching (I always use my vintage Singer 15-91 for jean topstitching).

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

My first pair, I added stretch interfacing to both the waistband and waistband facing, which went against the directions. Turns out, I should've followed the directions. The waistband is pretty darn tight on that first pair. I skipped it on this pair and the fit is much more comfortable.

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

I did follow a different method of construction so that I could fit the center back better. I have a swayback and always have to take wedges out to reduce gaping. I pulled out the directions for the long-forgotten classic Sewaholic Thurlow Trousers and followed those for the waistband assembly. Well, to a point. I just can't quit the idea of finishing the waistband facing with bias tape. It's so much easier and looks pretty. 

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

If you decide to chop the waistband in half at center back, make sure to add seam allowance on those ends. You can sew the legs and center front crotch seams together and leave the center back seam basted. Then you can fit the back seam from there.

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

For the hem, I cut the pants on the "tall" inseam length, then hemmed them 3" deep. I like the deep hem for a more trouser-like look. 

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

These jeans are super comfy and look so stylish! I still want to make this pattern in a skinny leg, and I have some black stretch denim set aside for that. Have you tried Ash?

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

Wednesday, January 11, 2023

Wool Gauze Patina Blouse

I recently posted my Hey June Rosslyn Trousers, while wearing my Patina Blouse, and couldn't believe it when I had no corresponding blog post for the Patina! It's such a great pattern, so here are the deets along with some photos you might have already seen lol. I had a lot of fun playing dress up with this blouse!

Patina Blouse

The Patina Blouse is from Friday Pattern Company. It's one of many of their patterns that I've tried and loved (Wilder Gown, Saltwater Slip, Heather Blazer, Saguaro Set). I don't often wear woven shirts with collars (I'm all about that comfy knit life) but when I'm in the mood for it, nothing else will do.

Patina Blouse

I measured close to a Small in the sizing chart, but decided to make an XS. That's the same size I wear in the Wilder Gown, and I also thought the Patina looks like it had just a touch more ease than I wanted. I'm super happy with the XS! I think a Small would have overwhelmed me a bit and possibly been too low cut.

Patina Blouse

About that neckline...it IS low on purpose. I don't dislike it, but other people might. So much so that Friday Pattern Co. released an alternate pattern piece and instructions for a raised neckline. Mine is unaltered and as-drafted.

Patina Blouse

The fabric I used is a true unicorn. It's a wool gauze deadstock from Stonemountain & Daughter. It is phenomenal, full stop. Light and airy but warm, soft and cozy but expensive-looking, it is all the things and I adore it. I had a tiny scrap left and I used it for a scarf. 

Patina Blouse

As nice as this fabric is, with the sleeve cap gathers and the double-layered collar it ends up being a little stiff. I would definitely not go any stiffer with fabric choices and would probably gravitate towards fabrics with better drape. You can always use interfacing to stiffen the collar, but you can't relax a fabric for pretty gathers. 

Patina Blouse

I definitely want to make this top again (maybe the long-sleeved version), and there are some super cute collar hacks out there too. And for the record, I can pull this on over my head without undoing the buttons, so don't be afraid to make a totally faux placket if you are a beginner and want to try this pattern.

Monday, January 9, 2023

Ponte Rosslyn Trousers

Another Hey June pattern on the blog today, this time the highly anticipated knit pants, the Rosslyn Trousers! (Forgive the lighting on the photos, I overexposed them on purpose so you could see the detail in the black better.)

Rosslyn Trousers
Top is a Patina Blouse from Friday Pattern Co.

I've been waiting on this one for three years (not a joke). I made some knit pants back in 2020 and they were TERRIBLE. Worst pattern I've ever used (Patterns for Pirates SOS Pants). I still have a draft blog post of them that I haven't published because I was so embarrassed. Anyway. At that time, Adrianna sent me a message that she would eventually be releasing a knit pants pattern, but it would be far in the future. Well, that future is now and that pattern is Rosslyn!

Rosslyn Trousers

These are actually not simple knit pants, they are definitely trousers. Fully functional fly, angled front pockets, and welt pockets on the rear. Traditional waistband and belt loops. The directions were excellent and there were plenty of links to blog posts for the tricky parts, if you needed help. There are three leg shapes; slim, straight and bootcut. I made the bootcut. The directions state that the bootcut is longer than the other two views. I am 5'4" and made no length adjustments.

Rosslyn Trousers

I made a size 4 for my 37-38" hips. I ended up grading the waist closer to a size 2, which is not unusual for me in pants. I have a swayback, so I always have to take a wedge from CB. My tummy also tends to fluctuate in size. It's becoming quite annoying having pants that fit one day, and don't the next, when I'm making them myself! But that's part of being a living, breathing human and I'm trying to give myself permission to just wear a dang belt if I need it.

Rosslyn Trousers

The fabric I used is a delicious rayon/nylon/spandex ponte from LA Finch Fabrics. I ordered five yards of it! Eventually, I'd like to make a jacket (maybe an Evans Blazer?) with my leftovers. You just never know when you'll need a good black ponte. There are a couple other colors online right now and if you like them, do not hesitate to add to cart. I did take care when pressing and used a press cloth to prevent shine, but the high rayon content meant that it pressed well (unlike a polyester ponte).

Rosslyn Trousers
Man this view looks terrible...they are definitely sagging

There were a couple times that I deviated from the directions to achieve a more elevated look. I got part way through constructing the welt pockets and realized that they were made by stitching the pocket bag directly to the back of the pants. I decided instead to make a more traditional welt pocket bag. I consulted the Reader's Digest sewing book for help there, and discovered a cute pocket tab detail that I incorporated.


After the first pocket was done, I was super duper over it and didn't feel like making a second. I could also see that in this heavy, stretchy knit fabric, the welt pockets were likely to gape. Long story short, one welt pocket is fake, one is real. The fake one has been hand-sewn shut to prevent it pulling open. In the future, I'll probably stick with faux welt pockets in stretchy fabrics.

Rosslyn Trousers

For all my pocket bags, I used a swim knit to keep them lightweight and prevent too much bulk.

Rosslyn Trousers

I did not topstitch the waistband, but stitched in the ditch instead. Once again, this was a personal preference for a nicer finish.

Rosslyn Trousers

Looking at these photos, you can tell that they are sliding down because they do not fit tightly enough in the waist, despite the belt. I was warned by a friend on IG that the rise is high and I agree. A combination of a lower rise and a smaller waist would probably help me with fit. Overall though, I'm pleased with how nice these look. I typically only wear dress pants to church in the wintertime, and finally I have some that are warm enough for these brutal Midwest winters.

If I ever go back to working in an office, I'll likely pull this pattern out again and make myself a bunch of secret pajama ponte pants. 

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Thursday, January 5, 2023

Hey June Fairmount Shacket

In the last year, I have sewn three Fairmount Shackets, and I have not blogged a single one. My first one has popped up on IG a bunch of times but it's never gotten a proper review. For shame!

Fairmount Shacket

In case you missed it, the Fairmount Shacket is from Hey June Handmade and it is wonderful! I made a size 4. My measurements put me at a 2 for the bust and a 6 for the hips, so I split the difference going with a 4. I'm happy with how it turned out and it fits nicely over other garments without being too big. No need to go up a size or anything, the pattern is drafted with the right amount of ease so that it's slightly oversized.

The fabric is a wide flannel from LA Finch Fabrics (sold out now). It's not a super soft flannel, it is VERY lightly brushed only on one side. It is durable though and has held up well despite a ton of wear.

Fairmount Shacket

This pattern is definitely the more complicated of the shacket patterns out there. A convertible collar, full button cuff with placket, optional patch pockets with flaps, a pleated back and lined yoke, and a button placket. It's not a quick sew, but the instructions will get you through it no problem. I made this first one without any modifications.

Fairmount Shacket

After I made this Fairmount, I got the crazy idea to make a fully lined version with sherpa and a hood. I owe the world a lengthy post about that process! Even though the lined one is amazing and snuggly, I still wear this first one a lot. It fills the same hole in my wardrobe as a cardigan, but it's more suited to outdoor walks than my knitwear. 

Fairmount Shacket

Have you tried a shacket yet? I think you'll be surprised how much you wear one!

I am a Hey June affiliate and my links have been used. All opinions are my own and my love of this pattern is genuine!

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