Handmade Three Piece Linen Suit

Some projects stay in your brain for a long time, and I have a feeling this one will. So, let's give it a blog post shall we?

The inspiration for this project started with the fabric. I have been wanting to make a linen blazer for a while, but the right fabric hasn't come along. Then I started working with Karleen at Sewing Studio (you may know them as PDX Sewing Studio, but they have since moved out of Portland, therefore dropping the PDX). I placed an order and asked her to throw in anything she'd like me to promote.

She sent me an absolutely stunning spring green cotton/linen blend woven. I was a little wary due to my last project with cotton/linen (these Arthur pants, which attract so much lint and just aren't nice to wear) but this fabric was SO different. Soft, good drape, but also a thick weight. I immediately knew it had to be the linen blazer of my dreams.

When I started cutting out the Heather Blazer (previously made here) I began to wonder if I could get a pair of shorts from my leftovers. Fabric Tetris netted me a pair of Deer & Doe Genet Shorts. I did have to use a scrap of linen for one waistband facing and piece a bit of the pockets, but I made it work.

The lining I used for both the shorts and blazer was a poly crepe from Jo-Ann's. I had bought it to test the Pleats and Thank You Jumpsuit, but they had to give me the yardage in two pieces and I couldn't make it work. So, I was VERY happy to find a purpose for a portion of three yards of poly crepe.

I'm a pretty advanced sewist but jackets are complicated, and I appreciate good directions. The Heather directions are fantastic, and matching the lining and turning it all out is easy to follow.

I also enjoyed making the Genet Shorts! It's been some time since I made a Deer & Doe pattern (maybe I've only made the free Plantain Tee) but their directions were good as well. I did end up cutting a size slightly smaller than the chart and letting it out over the hips. I would rather do that than end up with too-big pleated pants.

After I finished my two pieces, I realized that Pattern Review was running a Matchy Matchy contest. Well, isn't that just convenient! However, the rules stipulated that you could not photograph a suit jacket in a way that you could see a different fabric underneath. Okay. My choices were to either button it up and pretend I didn't have a shirt on, to actually not have a shirt on, or to make some sort of top from the same fabric.

I got the wild idea to see what I could do with my scraps. I had literally thrown them into the trash because there was so little fabric left. Most of what I pulled out were long strips straight down the grain. I started piecing them together and realized I could make a Jasmine Bra. 

Things got wild after that, I made it work whatever way I could. I lined it with cut and sew bra foam and then bound the upper edges. I made straps and an underband. 

I have never made a quilt before, and piecing strips to create a final piece was new to me. I get it now. It's so rewarding! Of course, I was using something that would otherwise be trash, so I'm sure that had something to do with my satisfaction.

My three piece set has been entered into the Pattern Review contest. Voting runs April 18th-27th. If you are a member over there, I would love it if you would vote for me!

I received the linen fabric for free in exchange for review. I am a freelancer for Sewing Studio. All opinions are my own.

Wool Gauze Patina Blouse

I recently posted my Hey June Rosslyn Trousers, while wearing my Patina Blouse, and couldn't believe it when I had no corresponding blog post for the Patina! It's such a great pattern, so here are the deets along with some photos you might have already seen lol. I had a lot of fun playing dress up with this blouse!

The Patina Blouse is from Friday Pattern Company. It's one of many of their patterns that I've tried and loved (Wilder Gown, Saltwater Slip, Heather Blazer, Saguaro Set). I don't often wear woven shirts with collars (I'm all about that comfy knit life) but when I'm in the mood for it, nothing else will do.

I measured close to a Small in the sizing chart, but decided to make an XS. That's the same size I wear in the Wilder Gown, and I also thought the Patina looks like it had just a touch more ease than I wanted. I'm super happy with the XS! I think a Small would have overwhelmed me a bit and possibly been too low cut.

About that neckline...it IS low on purpose. I don't dislike it, but other people might. So much so that Friday Pattern Co. released an alternate pattern piece and instructions for a raised neckline. Mine is unaltered and as-drafted.

The fabric I used is a true unicorn. It's a wool gauze deadstock from Stonemountain & Daughter. It is phenomenal, full stop. Light and airy but warm, soft and cozy but expensive-looking, it is all the things and I adore it. I had a tiny scrap left and I used it for a scarf. 

As nice as this fabric is, with the sleeve cap gathers and the double-layered collar it ends up being a little stiff. I would definitely not go any stiffer with fabric choices and would probably gravitate towards fabrics with better drape. You can always use interfacing to stiffen the collar, but you can't relax a fabric for pretty gathers. 

I definitely want to make this top again (maybe the long-sleeved version), and there are some super cute collar hacks out there too. And for the record, I can pull this on over my head without undoing the buttons, so don't be afraid to make a totally faux placket if you are a beginner and want to try this pattern.

Raising the Neckline on the Elysian Bodysuit

This post contains affiliate links.

I'm sure that five bodysuits is probably too many, but what if I change it up slightly? That makes it okay, right? My first Elysian Bodysuit was made without modifications. The neckline is super deep because it is intended to be the "entrance" into the bodysuit. It must be big enough to stretch over your hips and be pulled up onto your shoulders. I decided to raise the neckline on my next one, here's how I did it!

What's nice about this pattern change is that the front of the bodysuit is provided as a full pattern piece, not one cut on the fold. That makes it easier to get an idea of how to change it. For this hack, you will benefit from a French curve (I have and recommend this one), but it's not 100% necessary as long as you can sketch a nice neckline.

I made an Instagram Reel explaining my process, you can watch it here. 

If you raise the neckline, you HAVE to add crotch snaps, otherwise you will not be able to get into the bodysuit! Friday Pattern Co. has a tutorial for adding snaps here on their blog. Make sure to read it BEFORE cutting your fabric, because you need to add length to the crotch!

I made one other modification to this version, and that was to serge elastic to the leg holes, turn it down, and topstitch. The original pattern calls for a narrow band to finish the legs, but I prefer my method. I just got an elastic foot for my serger, so this was my first chance to try it out. Still working through the kinks but it worked well! I also did not hem the sleeves, for the same reason, that I just don't like narrow bands on swim knits.

You can find this fantastic retro floral swim print (with two solid coordinates!) at The Fabric Fairy. I am on the promo team but genuinely LOVE all their fabrics! Thank you Fabric Fairy for your support!

Saguaro Set Number Two--with coupon code to iSee Fabric!

Okay yeah, I made another Saguaro Set. Consider this blog post just a bunch of beautiful photos of my garden and an amazing colored linen. Scroll to the end for a coupon code to iSee Fabric! If you want more construction-type details, visit my first post. Sizing and construction is completely the same, except I made the full length pants!

This Medium Weight Laundered Linen is from iSee Fabric and the color is Pond. It is so freaking beautiful, I can't get over it. I just keep petting it. I've used iSee Fabric for a ton of projects and I am never disappointed! If you want to try it yourself, save 10% with code 110CREATIONS!

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Elysian Bodysuit by Friday Pattern Company

This project will forever be known as "the Lisa Frank bodysuit". I didn't see the connection until other people pointed it out, but I do now! And as a kid who was born in the 80's and lived through the 90's, obviously I love the reference. Ten year old me is so happy right now.

This is the Elysian Bodysuit from Friday Pattern Co. I made the whole bodysuit in one day, including pattern assembly. It's super fast and easy. I followed the size chart, making an XS in the bust and grading out to a M in the hips. The pattern is drafted for 5'6", I am 5'4", but I have a long torso. I made no changes to the length except that I shortened the crotch from the medium to the XS cut line. I also shortened the sleeve and didn't hem it.

There is a seam under the bust so you can color block, but I accidentally pattern-matched so well that it's hard to tell! This fabric is actually swim, from The Fabric Fairy! I bought it for my daughters and made two swimsuits (one was heartily rejected and has since be rehomed), you can see the suit that was accepted here.

Unlike other bodysuit's, the Elysian is meant to pull up and down through the neckline, so no tricky snap crotch to sew. Friday Pattern Co. does have a tutorial for that online if you want it though. If you don't have a bodysuit pattern in your arsenal yet, I can heartily recommend this one!

Have you hopped on the bodysuit train yet? You can see my Anouk Bodysuit here and my Madalynne Fenix Bodysuit blog post here. Will I stop at three bodysuits? 

Now in a digital format!

I received this fabric for free as part of the Fabric Fairy promo team.

Friday Pattern Company Saguaro Set

Ever love a pattern so much that you buy it before you even get out of bed in the morning? That was me, a few weeks ago, scrolling IG in bed from my phone, when I saw the Saguaro Set from Friday Pattern Company. I had already been considering a similar pattern with a different sleeve (Papercut Estella Dress) but I fell HARD for the dolman on the Saguaro. 

It was a Friday, which I normally set aside as a sewing day, so once the kids were at school I was off in a frenzy! For a full set, top and long pants, you need more than 3 yards. I only had two yard cuts on hand, so while I debated ordering more fabric vs. making shorts, I got started on the top. I had it done by the end of the day, it's a quick sew!

I measured an XS for the top and a M for the pants. I typically make an XS in other FPC tops, so I was confident in the sizing, and it worked out perfectly.

The tie strap in the front is optional, and you can also flip the top around so the plunging V is in the back. When I tried it that way, I kinda felt like I was choking, so if you hate having things close to your neck you won't like it that way. I'm glad I added the ties in the front, it doesn't detract from the sexy vibe but it helps hide a bra and give you a little more coverage.

After finishing the top, I decided to go ahead and use my remaining yardage for shorts. I made them as long as I could with what I had left. Gotta admit, as much as I would've loved to swan around in full length pants, I think the shorts are super cute. 

By the way, the fabric is from iseefabric and is their laundered medium weight linen (use my referral link and if you're a new customer, we'll both get a $5 off coupon!). The color I used is Rose. I've sewn with this fabric a couple times and it's probably my favorite linen ever!

I tried the top on with a bunch of my other linen and high waisted pants, and it looked good with everything. The shorts pair well with other crop tops too. I wore the whole set to play bocce ball with some friends and it was perfect for a warm spring night.

Have you taken the quiz yet?! 

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

 You guys. I'm in love with this project. And this isn't just I-love-it-because-I-just-finished-it love. It's real.

Forever ago, I saw this wool/linen jacquard deadstock woven on the Stonemountain and Daughter Instagram. Instant love. Combine that with the wool gauze from the same collection, and I couldn't hit "add to cart" fast enough. Once I got it, I knew it had to be a blazer. And when the fabric speaks, you listen. Somewhere after that I bought the Heather Blazer pattern. And then they sat. Christmas happened. We got covid. Blah blah. And finally I had a break in my making schedule. Bring on the blazer!!!

I previously made the Wilder Gown and the Patina Blouse from Friday, and in both cases I sized down from the chart and made an XS. Without paying too much attention to the chart, I did the same thing for the Heather. I knew it was designed to be oversized, but I wanted to avoid being swallowed. In retrospect, I probably should have stuck with the chart and made a small. It's a touch too small for easy movement, however I do love the way it looks. Additionally, it's worth noting that my lining fabric is pretty thick, and a thinner lining might have allowed more room.

Anyway. I had less than two yards of the leopard print and I just squeaked out the XS. The lining fabric is a deep purple flannel-backed satin. It's called "kasha satin" and it's from Vogue Fabrics. I ordered it as an option for my Oslo Coat, but ended up using something else. Normally, I would stay away from purple. It's my second least favorite color (yellow being my least favorite). But I knew it would work with this blazer, and if I didn't use it now I might never get it off my shelf.

In the end, I'm VERY happy with the lining. The jacquard was only juuuuust structured enough for a jacket, so the flannel backing on the satin definitely helped give the necessary body. It looks and feels luxe and somehow the purple works with the leopard print. I would 1000% order this exact fabric again for lining a coat.

This is not my first rodeo with a blazer, a notched collar, tailoring details, etc. and yet I was still impressed with the directions. The way they were written made all the steps seem completely possible. The lining is expertly drafted to fit into the shell. The diagram for sewing the sleeves together is the best I've ever seen (normally that step confuses the crap out of me). There is a video for finishing up the hem but I didn't even need it. The pattern uses woven interfacing, knit interfacing, bias cut pieces, a back stay, and hand tacking all over the place to give you a superb end result. Seriously, I cannot say enough good things!

I had a lot of fun playing dress up with and discovered that this blazer goes with way more of my wardrobe than I expected. If I want to follow trends, I guess I need some high waisted mom jeans and a crop top, but for now some Morgan jeans and an Ogden Cami will work fine.

Do you consider leopard print a neutral? It's the only print I can deal with easily. I love it so much!