Monday, January 9, 2023

Ponte Rosslyn Trousers

Another Hey June pattern on the blog today, this time the highly anticipated knit pants, the Rosslyn Trousers! (Forgive the lighting on the photos, I overexposed them on purpose so you could see the detail in the black better.)

Rosslyn Trousers
Top is a Patina Blouse from Friday Pattern Co.

I've been waiting on this one for three years (not a joke). I made some knit pants back in 2020 and they were TERRIBLE. Worst pattern I've ever used (Patterns for Pirates SOS Pants). I still have a draft blog post of them that I haven't published because I was so embarrassed. Anyway. At that time, Adrianna sent me a message that she would eventually be releasing a knit pants pattern, but it would be far in the future. Well, that future is now and that pattern is Rosslyn!

Rosslyn Trousers

These are actually not simple knit pants, they are definitely trousers. Fully functional fly, angled front pockets, and welt pockets on the rear. Traditional waistband and belt loops. The directions were excellent and there were plenty of links to blog posts for the tricky parts, if you needed help. There are three leg shapes; slim, straight and bootcut. I made the bootcut. The directions state that the bootcut is longer than the other two views. I am 5'4" and made no length adjustments.

Rosslyn Trousers

I made a size 4 for my 37-38" hips. I ended up grading the waist closer to a size 2, which is not unusual for me in pants. I have a swayback, so I always have to take a wedge from CB. My tummy also tends to fluctuate in size. It's becoming quite annoying having pants that fit one day, and don't the next, when I'm making them myself! But that's part of being a living, breathing human and I'm trying to give myself permission to just wear a dang belt if I need it.

Rosslyn Trousers

The fabric I used is a delicious rayon/nylon/spandex ponte from LA Finch Fabrics. I ordered five yards of it! Eventually, I'd like to make a jacket (maybe an Evans Blazer?) with my leftovers. You just never know when you'll need a good black ponte. There are a couple other colors online right now and if you like them, do not hesitate to add to cart. I did take care when pressing and used a press cloth to prevent shine, but the high rayon content meant that it pressed well (unlike a polyester ponte).

Rosslyn Trousers
Man this view looks terrible...they are definitely sagging

There were a couple times that I deviated from the directions to achieve a more elevated look. I got part way through constructing the welt pockets and realized that they were made by stitching the pocket bag directly to the back of the pants. I decided instead to make a more traditional welt pocket bag. I consulted the Reader's Digest sewing book for help there, and discovered a cute pocket tab detail that I incorporated.

After the first pocket was done, I was super duper over it and didn't feel like making a second. I could also see that in this heavy, stretchy knit fabric, the welt pockets were likely to gape. Long story short, one welt pocket is fake, one is real. The fake one has been hand-sewn shut to prevent it pulling open. In the future, I'll probably stick with faux welt pockets in stretchy fabrics.

Rosslyn Trousers

For all my pocket bags, I used a swim knit to keep them lightweight and prevent too much bulk.

Rosslyn Trousers

I did not topstitch the waistband, but stitched in the ditch instead. Once again, this was a personal preference for a nicer finish.

Rosslyn Trousers

Looking at these photos, you can tell that they are sliding down because they do not fit tightly enough in the waist, despite the belt. I was warned by a friend on IG that the rise is high and I agree. A combination of a lower rise and a smaller waist would probably help me with fit. Overall though, I'm pleased with how nice these look. I typically only wear dress pants to church in the wintertime, and finally I have some that are warm enough for these brutal Midwest winters.

If I ever go back to working in an office, I'll likely pull this pattern out again and make myself a bunch of secret pajama ponte pants. 

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Use code TIMETOSHINE15 at checkout!

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