Sewversary: Goals

How did I do on last year's goals?

Quality over quantity

This one is basically ongoing. I struggled with it, because I'm impatient and like to see results. However, I did spend three months making one coat, so I give myself a pat on the back for that. I've also chosen to hand-sew in a lot of situations where something else would have been faster.

Sew something with a lining

Woohoo, I can check this one of the list! I made this lined flower girl dress for AB, and a lined coat. I definitely still need to work on linings, I'm not overly confident with them and they still intimidate me.

"Master" my serger

I think I can say I accomplished this one. I used my serger a lot for construction and finishing. I played with tensions, stitches, and fancy threads.

Learn special occasion sewing

Ehhhhh I made one flower girl dress and hemmed a bridesmaid's dress, so...success?

Get better with fit

Another ongoing one. I've identified some issues with my narrow shoulders and have strategies for dealing with them. Still tweaking. I also suspect I have a long torso, but haven't done much research besides "hey, this seems short". It might be a personal preference instead of an actual issue.

Make my sewing useful for my husband

YAY a big fat success! A coat, a shirt, hemmed pants...okay, that's only three things, but for this predominately selfish seamstress that's a lot.

I didn't note this, but I was sure I'd resolved to sew a vintage pattern (done!). I see that I had planned on a swimsuit and jeans. I still plan on a swimsuit (I have the fabric!). Jeans? Well read on...

Goals for the next year:

1. Sew a pair of jeans. No more excuses! 

2. Sew fabrics that aren't knits.

3. Do the right thing. Not the fast thing.

4. Sew more pants.

5. Learn my coverstitch.
6. Do some charity sewing.

These aren't insurmountable goals, although sewing jeans feels that way sometimes. I feel like I'm in a good place right now with many skills, but I could use more experience with complicated projects. I need to be confident enough to challenge myself and patient enough to learn even when I'm frustrated. 

Sewversary Superlatives

The Sewversary celebration continues, today with a look back at the projects from the last year (this is why I didn't do this kind of post in January!). To keep things consistent, I'll use the same categories I did on my last Sewversary round-up post.

Biggest Success:

No surprise, but it's another coat! The highly modified Albion coat that I made for my husband took so. long. to make, but I learned a lot. Like coating-making sucks. Just kidding! It's kind of a love-hate thing. I loved spending so much time carefully crafting something useful for my husband, but the end result has a few flaws that bug me. I'm listing it as my biggest success because it took some guts on my part to even try it, and dangit all I finished it, so BOOM. Success.

Biggest Fail:

Waaaaaaah I'm still upset over this one. This knit blazer wearable muslin was going just fine until the collar/front facing. There was weird clipping (in my opinion) and bad directions and meh.

Oldest stashed fabric:

This is embarrassing, because it's the same fabric as last year. Fail. But but but lately I've been using a lot of stash fabrics soooooo...yeah that doesn't make it any better. This is a home-dec weight fabric that I bought to make a poof for AB's room. I should just give it away because I'm never going to use it.

Newest fabric:

via Instagram

I got a fantastic order from Mood a few weeks ago. SO MUCH PINK! You're looking at mostly knits (of course) and the deep fuschia is stretch SILK charmeuse. And it wasn't all pink, there's some blue/white striped twill peeking out behind it all.

UFO count:

This is actually the same as last year, plus two (the failed blazer and this Burda top). I'm not into UFOs. I finish things.

Most worn item:

I know this summer I'm going to wear the crap out of my three Perfect Slouchy Tanks, but over the last year this feather print knit tunic is one that I reached for a lot. I've worn it over long leggings, capri leggings, jeans, with a sweater...I only wish I had had enough yardage for more than a tunic.


So that's that! Tomorrow I'll be looking back at my goals from last year, and making new goals. More lists!

It's my Sewversary! And my Brother 1034d review

Two years ago, my husband surprised me with my first sewing machine. I never took home ec, had no idea how a sewing machine worked, but was thrilled to be able to try. I was quickly addicted and the rest is history. Join me this week as I celebrate my sewing!

Last year on my Sewversary, I reviewed my Brother CS-6000i sewing machine. It's now been a year since I received my Brother 1034d serger (another Mother's Day gift!) and I figured it would be a good chance to offer a formal review of the machine. One of my goals in the last year was to learn as much as I could about my serger. I'm fairly certain I've used all of the common stitches (3-thread overlock, 4-thread overlock, rolled hem, flatlock) and even explored more of the uncommon uses (hellllllo easy gathering!). So I hope I'm qualified to give a proper review!

What it does:

Sergers use a combination of multiple threads (mine uses a max of 4) and needles (max of 2) to create loops and stitches along a fabric edge. A knife is installed within the machine, which cuts the seam allowance off as you sew. The tension on each thread can be manipulated (as well as the length and width), which results in different kinds of stitches being possible.

The Brother 1034d is probably the most popular/common serger out there. It's inexpensive (as sergers go) but has a lot of functionality. Is it intimidating at first? Yes. It is. Not gonna lie. But take a deep breath, block out distractions, and you'll be threading and serging in no time. And once you serge, you'll never go back!

What it doesn't do:

This particular machine has some limitations. It doesn't do the following:

Two-thread stitching.
Five-thread stitching.
Coverstitching.

There are other models that offer these features, but I haven't "needed" the 2 and 5 thread stitching thus far. I have a separate machine for coverstitching.

Pros:

• Sews knits like it's its job (it is).
• Finishes woven seam allowances quickly and neatly.
• Personally, I've had zero mechanical issues in a year of decently heavy use. Any time something wasn't working properly, it was usually my fault (threads tangled while threading, bad tension settings, dull needle).
• Uses the same Schmetz needles as my Brother CS-6000i. Some sergers need special needles.
• It's FAAAAAAAAAST.
• Did I mention the knits thing?

Cons:

• It's loud. Having no experience with any other sergers, maybe they're all loud, but somehow I doubt it.
• There is a learning curve with threading, however remember that two of the four threads are NEEDLE threads. No different than your sewing machine. In reality, you're only learning how to thread two new things (an upper looper and lower looper) and they aren't that bad.
• It's heavy. This is kind of a pro, because a serger sews very quickly and you don't want the machine vibrating itself off the table. But if you don't have a dedicated sewing room and will be packing/moving/unpacking it all the time, you'll want to consider the weight.
• This is nit-picking, but both needles are tightened/loosened with the same set screw. It can be a bit tricky to get two needles in without dropping one into the guts of the machine. There is a special tool for holding needles that can make this easier (I do NOT have it but still manage).

Bottom line:

Would I recommend this serger? Hands down, yes. If it got hit by lightning and I needed to buy another? I'd buy this one again (and hey, it could happen...our house was hit last year).

My suspicion about sergers is that most people will probably be brand-loyal when it comes time to buy one. The biggest question is not WHICH serger, but do I NEED one in the first place. Once you decide your use will justify the cost, you'll probably be happy with a serger from your favorite brand. Personally, I enjoy having 3 Brother machines. Owning the 1034d made learning about my coverstitch machine MUCH easier.

So, do you need a serger? If you sew knits, yes. It's not a popular thing to say, but all the "tricks" to using a regular machine are just that, tricks. You CAN paint a house with a brush, but wouldn't a roller be easier? The right tool for the job DOES make a difference. There, I said it. I understand that everyone has their own limitations with funds and space, but I'm not going to pretend that sergers aren't awesome.

Once you have a serger, a little education can go a long way towards making you feel comfortable. My machine came with an instructional DVD in addition to a manual, and I did watch the DVD. It helped. I highly recommend the Beginner Serging class on Craftsy. I bought the class myself and still access it now and again. It was worth taking just for the opportunity to see other sergers and how they work. I also had trouble one time and posted a picture to the class, and received a reply from the instructor. You can also read about the three serging books I recommend, here.

This post contains affiliate links. The thoughts and opinions in this review are my own.

Goals for the Next Year

On Tuesday I talked about my biggest accomplishments so far during my first year of sewing. Today I want to pledge some of my goals for the coming year, partly to get them straight in my head, and partly for accountability purposes!

Quality over quantity

This is absolutely my biggest goal. I have a tendency to blow through projects rapidly, just to feel like I'm accomplishing something. Right now, I'm working on Thurlows and taking my time with them. It feels odd to go slowly, but I know that I'll end up with a quality item when I'm finished. There's no point in doing something quickly and then going back later to fix my own busted seams and uneven hems. Part of this goal includes finishing my seams well, and I'm happy to have a serger now to help me with that!

Sew something with a lining

In a year's time, the only lining I've put in a garment was the croquet dress for AB. I've noticed that a lot of sewists in the blogging world add linings as a matter of course. I have a pencil skirt in mind for this particular goal, which should be an easy warm up for adding linings to other patterns as well.

"Master" my serger

I put master in quotes because I can't come up with a better word! I have no assumptions that I'll conquer my serger in a year. I'm sure they can be as fickle and unique as sewing machines. But I think you get my point, that I don't want it to sit in a cubby and collect dust. At the very least I should learn to thread it, and the basic stitches like the 3 and 4 thread overlock, rolled hem, and flatlock.

Learn special occasion sewing

This is a goal, but also a necessity. I'll be making a bridesmaid's dress for myself, and a flower girl dress for AB, for a wedding in October. I'm nervous but also excited to create two garments for such an important day, and to work on special occasion techniques that I don't usually implement in a knit t-shirt.

Get better with fit

Sewing with knits so often lets me off the hook on this one, but it's time I got a better handle on proper fitting. I sound like a broken record with this Thurlow thing, but I've been reading about fitting pants and felt totally clueless going into it. I want to expand my knowledge of fitting problems and solutions. Maybe I'll even cut down on the amount of times I hear the dreaded "that looks too big" phrase from my husband!

Make my sewing useful to my husband.

So far, the only clothing I've made is for myself and AB, who isn't old enough to understand/care/give feedback. It feels sort of shameful that I've made all these garments and not a single thing for my husband. I've bought two men's patterns and the fabric for a Negroni shirt, but I was waiting to get my serger before tacking anything for him. It didn't matter to me if I was wearing something with stray threads, but I definitely want him to wear quality items if I'm the one making them. I also hope to learn some alteration skills that will help him out with the clothes he already has. He's an odd size and I would love to take away the annoyance he has when shopping.

So there they are, my 2013 goals laid bare. A year from now I'll check back and see which of these I can check off my list! By the way, I didn't mention too many specific projects, but I definitely want to sew a swimsuit, a pair of jeans, and a coat. What are your big goals this year? A fancy party dress? A winter coat? Spill!

Pssst...looking to sew some swim trunks for your little boy? The Surf's Up Board Shorts pattern is half off today only over at Peek-A-Boo Pattern Shop!

Best Beginner Sewing Books

Welcome back to day three of my Sew-versary! Today I'll be writing about one of my favorite topics, books. And my all-day plan is to distract myself from the impending Office series finale (wow, it hurt to type that) happening tomorrow.

I love to read. One of the best parts of this sewing journey has been all the books I've consulted along the way. I thought I would compile a list of the books that, as a beginner, helped me the most over this past year.

Sewing For Dummies

by Janice Saunders Maresh

I know. It's not exactly on everyone's "must-buy" list. But this was the first book I read about sewing and it gave me all the basics I desperately needed. I had never touched a sewing machine (no pajama shorts in middle school home ec for me) and couldn't define seam allowance, bobbin, or jersey. I was, essentially, a dummy! If you need things explained to you in simple terms with illustrations, this book is for you.

Fabrics A to Z

by Dana Willard

Once you've mastered all the basics of how to operate a sewing machine, now comes the time to put something through it (mainly fabric...no guarantees if you try sewing a duct tape prom dress). But the world of fabric is hard to navigate. This book takes you through the differences in HOW fabrics are made (knit vs. woven), as well as the difference between the fibers with which they are made (cotton, polyester, etc.). I've seen recommendations for other fabric books, and I've tried a couple, but this one is concise and will get you started on your fabric-learning journey.

The Dressmaker's Technique Bible

by Lorna Knight

Another concise book, this book goes over construction methods (how to set in a sleeve) and alterations (how to lengthen a skirt) in one-page nuggets. When I was learning to sew, I liked to have a little knowledge about a lot of topics, so I could feel empowered to try new things. This book isn't a be-all end-all like the famous Reader's Digest sewing book, but if I found myself needing more information on a certain topic, at least I had a base to get me started.

Sewing with Knits

by Connie Long

This is the best book on knits. Period. Horrifically, it's out of print and will cost you an arm and a leg to buy it on ebay. And then you'll have to learn how to sew shirts and pants with one sleeve and one pant leg. Luckily for me, my library has it, so I've checked it out a bunch of times. I'm reading it again now since receiving my serger. If you love knits as much as I do, read. this. book. Also, don't accidentally buy the Singer Sewing Library version with the same title. I have that book, and it's also great, but this one is better if you can find it.

Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing

by Gretchen Hirsch

If you read my earlier review of this book, I wasn't super thrilled with it, but as time as passed I find myself thinking about its techniques all the time. Sometimes, you're stuck on something or want to find a better solution, and couture techniques or hand-sewing might be your answer. I would recommend this book for an advanced beginner who is looking to expand on the basics.

Finally, it's not a book, but Threads magazine is wonderful. It connects me to the wider world of sewing, while presenting a range of topics for all abilities. I wish it were published monthly instead of every other month!

I'm leaving out a TON of other books I've read, and I haven't mentioned any books that were project-based. Perhaps I'll leave those for another post! I hope this list of beginner books is helpful. My advice is to read everything you can, even if you think you know the topic already. Each author has his or her own tricks and you'll learn more than you thought your brain could hold! What are your favorite sewing books? I've got an Amazon wish list a mile long of all the ones I'd love to own...

This post contains Amazon Affiliate links. All opinions expressed are my own!

Sew-versary Superlatives

In case you missed it yesterday this week I'm celebrating one year since receiving my sewing machine and starting on this sewing journey. Today, I want to look back at some of my favorite projects and see what I've accomplished this year. Don't worry, it won't all be successes, I'm going to keep it real and throw in some major fails as well!

Biggest Success

This was an easy choice. Made early on in my time as a sewist, this coat for AB, made from a wool suit jacket that I purchased at Goodwill, is still my biggest accomplishment. I honestly can't believe I tackled a coat and that everything from the collar to the buttons looks professional and stylish.

Biggest Fail

It's hard to say when a project has reached its limit and is a total loss, but I give this award to the 3 Button Boots from Peek-A-Boo Pattern Shop that I tried to make this winter. If you'll notice, they're made from the same fabric as the winter coat pictured above. The pink lining is from an angora wool sweater which is crazy soft. I finished one boot...and then stopped. These would have been so cute when paired with the coat, but about the time I was working on them, AB started walking. These boots, ironically, aren't made for walking. More for sitting and being carried. Also: boots are hard to sew. There was hand-sewing and finishing in tight spots. The pattern and instructions are great, but I didn't have the patience for it and gave up.

Most Lingering Fabric

Not counting the bag of clothes for refashioning and any fabric I happened to have before learning to sew, this fabric is the oldest uncut piece in my stash. It has a purpose, I have a plan for it, but I've never gotten around to implementing it. It's a home dec weight, from Jo-Ann's, and it's for a poof (y'know, a big fluffy thing you sit on) for AB's room. I got the idea from the book One Yard Wonders and one of these days...

Freshest Fabric

The only piece of fabric I purchased during the entire month of April is this yard from The French Seam, an adorable little shop near Indianapolis that I was visiting for the first time. It's from Moda and I can't wait to make another cute O+S picnic shirt for AB. Not eligible to win: anything in the bargain box from Girl Charlee that I snagged last Friday (it's not here yet!).

Project I wear the most

I love this kimono sleeve t-shirt so much that I actually have to stop myself from wearing it every day. It's getting a tad pilly (stupid rayon) but it's so soft and so comfortable. Plus, I drafted the pattern myself!

Project AB wears the most

This is so dumb, but oddly enough AB wears these upcylced wool pants all. the. time. Obviously, I'm the one picking them out, but they somehow go with everything and work in all situations. Even my husband chooses them often. Maybe I should take the hint and dive into that pile of sweaters I have in the closet!

UFO count

I'm proud to say that I don't have too many UFOs (UnFinished Objects). I counted and only had 7, which includes one pattern-drafting project. I used to have a rule for myself that I could have 3 projects going at once, and that's how I ended up with UFOs in the first place. Now I work on one thing at a time and I never have UFOs. All my unfinished projects are in my head :)

Biggest Accomplishment

The lapped zipper I put into my Simplicity shorts gave me a sense of accomplishment that I can't even describe. I know it's just a dumb zipper, and now that I know how to do it, the process will become routine, but I was scared of zippers for almost an entire year. Imagine being scared of the dog next door, only to find that if you give him a treat he'll wag his tail every time he sees you. I'm relieved that I conquered my fears, proud of myself for trying it again so soon after failing miserably, and glad that a scary hiccup didn't stop me from sewing completely.

What are some of your "sewing superlatives"? Favorite project? Project you can't forget soon enough? Check back Thursday when instead of looking back, I'll look forward and go over the goals I have for my second year of sewing.

Happy Sew-versary to me!

Today marks one year since I received my sewing machine, on my first Mother's Day, 2012. Oh, and how was my second Mother's Day, you ask? Nice weather, good times with my daughter and husband, and what was that other thing that happened...OH YEAH!

NBD. Just that my husband bought me the serger I've been saving up to buy for the last three months. YES! And remember that I already had a present, in my new sewing workstation, so I wasn't expecting anything other than a card and getting to pick where we ate lunch. My husband is the best gift-giver I've ever met!

Brother 1034D

I've already taken it for a spin (but first I read the manual and watched the instructional DVD!!). I had some double bamboo french terry wipes cut (probably from 9 months ago) and sitting in my UFO pile. They were perfect for practicing:

My first try was pretty bad:

But by the fourth or fifth wipe, they were looking much better:

And seriously, I'm already in love. I'm headed to the library today to pick up a book about serging (I like to be over-prepared!) but I've already played with the differential feed and seen results from small adjustments there. SO. HAPPY!

But I'm getting sidetracked. Today (this week) is about celebrating a year of finding a wonderful...hobby? naw...I'd rather call it a passion, that more accurately describes how I feel!

To kick off Sew-versary week, I want to focus on my regular sewing machine, my Brother CS-6000i.

I should go back on Amazon and leave a positive review, but there are already a zillion others, plenty to convince any beginner to purchase this machine. I would say, as a former n00b, that it was perfect for me. The quick-start guide helped me thread it and be off sewing in no time, and the manual is clear and precise. After a year, I still turn to the manual often for all kinds of things and can quickly find answers.

There are a ton of fancy stitches, an automatic needle-threader, and an automatic bobbin-winder. I've never touched the tension on it (never had a reason!) and I think it's fairly quiet (now that I have a serger to compare it to, it's definitely quieter than that!). The only thing I find myself missing is control over the pressure in the presser foot. Since my walking foot started freaking out on me, I tend to use my regular presser foot for my knits, and it would be nice if I could reduce the pressure of the foot to help the fabric slide through. However, it's not something I noticed as a beginner. One of these days I'll figure out what's wrong with my walking foot and it might not be an issue ever again (I used it on a few projects involving faux fur, and it was never the same after that...probably my fault!).

So. It's been a year...and I haven't named my machine. At first, I just wanted to get to know it and see what worked. And then a few months ago I decided I definitely wanted a serger, likely another Brother, and I realized that if I had two Brothers, they should probably be named after brothers. Sounds easy enough, right? Wrong. Try thinking of famous brothers that aren't named Cain and Abel or who aren't sports stars. Or have lame names. It's harder than you'd think! But anyhow, I pulled from my British heritage (my grandmother moved here from England) and decided on...William and Harry!

Source

There you have it, two happy Brothers and one happy mama (me!). I'll be back tomorrow with a list of some of my favorite projects from the last year...if I can narrow it down!