Showing posts with label Paradise Patterns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paradise Patterns. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 28, 2023

Zoey Tank vs. Sommar Camisole

There are quite a few camisole patterns making the rounds right now, and you may be wondering which one is right for you. Two similar patterns I have tried are the Zoey Tank and Dress from True Bias, and the Sommar Camisole from Paradise Patterns. Today, I'm going to compare the two so you can figure out which one you need in your wardrobe!

Zoey Tank vs Sommar Camisole


In these photos, the blue top is the cropped Zoey in a size 4. The cream one is a full-length Sommar in a size C. My bust averages 33" and my waist 29". Both tops are made with rib knits from iSee Fabric (use my referral link to save $5!). I added trim to the front of the cream Sommar, it is not part of the pattern. The shorts are Landers

Size Charts

Sometimes, one pattern might work better than another simply because of the drafting block. Zoey is available in 0-18 or 14-32, bust 32"-59.5". Sommar comes in sizes A-P, or bust 28"-58". Here are the size charts for the Zoey and Sommar:
Zoey Tank vs Sommar Camisole
Zoey 0-18

Zoey Tank vs Sommar Camisole
Zoey 14-32

Zoey Tank vs Sommar Camisole
Sommar

Views

At first glance these patterns are super similar, but they do offer different looks. Zoey is a crop top, tank and a dress, and with the free neckline expansion you can have four neckline cuts as well. That's a lot of options!

Zoey Tank vs Sommar Camisole

Zoey Tank vs Sommar Camisole

Sommar is only a crop or tank, with only one neckline view. The main advantage of Sommar is that it comes with a built-in shelf bra option. There is no shelf bra for Zoey.

Zoey Tank vs Sommar Camisole

Fit

I find the fit of these tops to be close enough to call them "the same". I can't see myself using fit as a reason to choose one over the other. I would make my choice based on what kind of neckline I wanted, or if I wanted a shelf bra.

My bust and waist measurements don't usually fit neatly into a size chart (not since three kids) so I often end up splitting the difference and making a size in between. I also take the stretch of the fabric into account. The blue rib knit is a bit stretchier than the cream (it seems to be maybe a rayon blend instead of organic cotton). I could probably make a variety of sizes in either of these patterns but I'm happy with these.

Zoey Tank vs Sommar Camisole

Zoey Tank vs Sommar Camisole

Worth noting is that I think Sommar is drafted with longer straps, or to be lower cut. It's super easy to adjust the straps how you want, but as-drafted I wore my Sommar around a while and found my bust spilling out of the top. I went back and shortened the straps 3". And for the sake of transparency, it's possible I shortened my Zoey straps. I made it last year and therefore have no memory of what I did!

Zoey Tank vs Sommar Camisole

Zoey Tank vs Sommar Camisole

Construction

The construction method of these two is the same. The bodice is assembled and then binding is applied to the neckline, then binding is used as straps. I find this method pretty fiddly and annoying, to be honest, and I even have a coverstitch to make it easier. The results are nice, so maybe I'm just being a cranky old lady about the sewing.

Verdict

I like them both! I'm not sure one person needs them both, however. I received the Sommar for free after applying to be a tester for it. If you are comfortable hacking patterns, then you could add a shelf bra to the Zoey without much trouble. It has way more options so it gives you more bang for your buck. If I could only recommend one, it would be Zoey.

Zoey Tank vs Sommar Camisole

Have you made either of these patterns yet? Are you rocking crop tops as much as this old mother of three?

Zoey Tank vs Sommar Camisole

Thursday, March 24, 2022

Paradise Patterns Smultron Dress

Ohhhhh boy! All the heart eyes for this one! 

Smultron Dress

My jaw dropped when I saw the Paradise Patterns Smultron Dress on IG for the first time. Much like the Hallon Dress, I thought it looked fun, flirty, and unique. When I found out my husband and I are going to Hawaii in May, I ordered a bunch of rayon wovens from LA Finch Fabrics, and the first one became this dress!

Smultron Dress

The Smultron has a straight or V-neck option, and a back elastic or back ties with slit option. They can be mixed and matched. There are also directions in the pattern for adding an additional tier to the bottom to make the dress longer. I made the V-neck option with the tie back, no extra length.


I previously made two Hallon Dresses in a size 4 and was happy with the fit (aside from the length) and I measured in a size 4 for the Smultron. I made a 4 as drafted and again, I'm happy with the fit! 


At first, I was going to make adjustable straps just like I did with the Hallon. The Hallon has wider straps, where as the Smultron is a spaghetti strap. The slides look silly and weren't effective anyway, so I removed them, but I left the rings.


I admit, I stopped following the directions when it came time to put the yoke onto the dress. Somehow I got mixed up on which piece was the facing and which was the outer. In a solid colored dress it wouldn't matter, but I preferred one cut of my print over the other. So, I abandoned whatever order the directions were giving me and did my own thing. 

I also opted not to topstitch around the entire yoke. I only topstitched in the places where I turned the facing under.


I resisted this pattern for a while because I was afraid of the bias cut, especially since I knew I wanted a drapey rayon. It turned out not to be that bad at all! The Hallon Dress was a PITA to cut because the pattern pieces were so long, but the Smultron is shorter and I could manage cutting on my smallish table. 

Another bonus to the Smultron is that the back is juuuuuuust high enough to hide a strapless bra. I was not expecting that and it was a pleasant surprise. The ties and the bow cover up the bra band; if you made the view without the ties I think the elastic would hold the back high enough.


This dress is SO floaty and amazing! I definitely will be wearing it with boy shorts underneath though. I'm 5'4" so if you're taller than me keep the length in mind.

Hawaii here I come!

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