Tuesday, January 17, 2023

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

Apparently, lightning does strike twice. My first pair of Ash Jeans (flared view) turned out amazing. I almost doubted whether they could be that good again. Guess what. They can.

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

I've long needed a pair of nicer looking, trouser-esque jeans. I decided to try Ash again in the wide-legged version. I made the same size as before, a 6. This Tencel denim is totally bonkers and is fused/lined with French Terry. I'm serious. It was a score from LA Finch Fabrics (who else?) from two years ago. I previously made a pair of Yanta Overalls with it, and I liked it so much I went back and ordered more. I was worried about the stretch, but it turns out it worked fine for this pattern. I had totally forgotten it was Tencel but that explains why it's so soft!

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

Because I wanted these to look fancier, I skipped a lot of the contrast topstitching, omitted the belt loops and the leather patch. I also did not add rivets. Construction went a lot faster than normal because I wasn't switching back and forth among my machines for topstitching (I always use my vintage Singer 15-91 for jean topstitching).

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

My first pair, I added stretch interfacing to both the waistband and waistband facing, which went against the directions. Turns out, I should've followed the directions. The waistband is pretty darn tight on that first pair. I skipped it on this pair and the fit is much more comfortable.

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

I did follow a different method of construction so that I could fit the center back better. I have a swayback and always have to take wedges out to reduce gaping. I pulled out the directions for the long-forgotten classic Sewaholic Thurlow Trousers and followed those for the waistband assembly. Well, to a point. I just can't quit the idea of finishing the waistband facing with bias tape. It's so much easier and looks pretty. 

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

If you decide to chop the waistband in half at center back, make sure to add seam allowance on those ends. You can sew the legs and center front crotch seams together and leave the center back seam basted. Then you can fit the back seam from there.

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

For the hem, I cut the pants on the "tall" inseam length, then hemmed them 3" deep. I like the deep hem for a more trouser-like look. 

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

These jeans are super comfy and look so stylish! I still want to make this pattern in a skinny leg, and I have some black stretch denim set aside for that. Have you tried Ash?

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

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