Wednesday, February 27, 2019

Kendrick Overalls

It seems like these days, all my blog posts are 1000 words long, detailing intricate projects. I wish I could say I was sprinkling in those easy knit tshirts, but it seems I've already filled my closet with those! Today, let's take a look at my newest overalls.

You may recognize these as the Kendrick Overalls from Hey June. These have been in my queue since the pattern released, but the weather was the wrong season back then. I do have them on my 2019 Make Nine, so check one more of those off!

Shirt is New Look 6216

The fabric for this pattern has also been hanging around waiting. It's a silvery/grey stretch denim from Style Maker Fabrics. I enjoyed working with it, and somehow managed to squeak out the whole pattern from two yards (it calls for three). More on how later.

I chose my pattern sized based on my hip measurement, which is 38", putting me at an 8. I feel like this was at least one size too big as I took a LOT out of the side seams over the hips and grading up to the waist. I also sewed a deeper dart on the back of the pants. The outseams have a seam allowance of 1" which would have given me plenty of wiggle room in a 6 or possibly even a 4. I'm somewhat disappointed, because the more you cut off the side seams, the smaller the pockets become.

I'm not entirely sure where my sizing ended up with the waistband. I fit the measurements for an 8 but I took a wedge from CB as well as removing an equal amount from the side seams to match up with the hip portion. The CB wedge was an adjustment I needed with my Ginger Jeans and I'm noticing that I have a deep curve above my butt and into my back, most easily described as a swayback. At the same time, I have a protruding stomach (thanks kids!) that interferes with fit. I can take a waist measurement on myself, but the bulk of that number falls in the front of my body rather than the back. All that to say, the more pants I make, the more I learn about my individual shape and the common adjustments I'm going to need to make. I was quite pleased with how well I had fit these until I took these photos. I believe the wrinkles in the back are partly due to my tucked-in shirt. I swear they weren't there while I was sewing the pants in my underwear.

I was concerned about making a size 8 for the straps/top portion, because my bust measurement is 33". My bust is typically a size small in Hey June patterns. However, there is no bust measurement given in the size chart, or instructions for choosing a strap size. I find this to be a bit of a flaw in the pattern. I sent Adrianna a message on IG and she was very quick to respond that the straps weren't graded much, so it was completely acceptable to choose a different size. I ended up cutting a 4 and probably could have gone down one more size even. It actually really DOES matter what size straps you use, in particular in relation to the waist. The base of the straps must fit into the waistband, and I found that the back straps were too big to fit my back waistband. I ended up sewing a tuck into the CB of each back strap.

Fit adjustments out of the way, the other changes I made were to leave off any patch pockets. I kind of think the large, square ones on the back do nothing for anyone's butt. I had thought I might use the smaller, curved patch pockets (meant to go on the front if desired) on the back, but I ended up running out of fabric (and, if I'm being honest, energy).

I also used a quilting cotton from my stash for the waistband facings instead of more denim. I learned from my first pair of Burda overalls that doubling up on denim is stiff, hot, and heavy. The pocket stays for the Kendricks are also able to be made from lining fabric instead of denim, so that helped cut down on yardage as well. I could have possibly shortened them, but trying them on with different shoes I ended up with the original hem. I'm 5'4".

On to the instructions. This pattern is LONG. There are 100+ steps (granted, that is with both views mixed together). I mean, overalls are basically jeans for your boobs. It was not a fast sew and the directions made sure to walk you through it as much as possible.

I flat out did not like the instructions for the fly. They were different from any other flys I've sewn before. There was hand-basting. The zipper pull did not end up completely covered. Somehow my fly shield was too narrow. My waistband did not overlap as much as it should have (possibly my fault but I can't be completely sure) and I did not end up with enough space to install a jean button (that's why you see a hook and eye instead). There were a couple minor things about the fly instructions I did appreciate (basting around the fly shield from the front) but overall, I just plain didn't like them.

I accidentally knicked the pants and put a hole beneath the zipper

OKAY SO THEY'RE DONE NOW. I was so excited about these. But guys, the straps...they will not stay put. It breaks my heart to even type this out, but if fiddly straps are not your jam then you need to stay away from this pattern. Seems obvious I'm sure, but now you know for realz. I tried sewing them down and they ripped out as soon as I bent over to put on my shoes. I saw one tester who had tied her's so that's why mine are like that. I need to fiddle with the sliders because they may be the problem, I just don't know.

I know this review sounds like a total downer. I absolutely adore Hey June patterns and Adrianna. If you look in my closet you will find an embarrassing amount of Unions, Halifaxes, and Lanes. So believe me, nobody hates this review more than me.

Like all of my handmades, I will work hard to fit them into my closet. Perhaps when spring is here, and if I find a solution for the straps, I will find a place for these. Fingers crossed!

Wednesday, February 20, 2019

Date Night Ogden Cami and Blazer

Today's post brings you two handmade items for the price of one! A few weeks ago, I finally succumbed to the Ogden Cami craze in anticipation of spring/summer sewing. I'm obsessed with the way Ogdens pair with culottes like the Winslows. But until warm weather gets here, this first Ogden of mine is going to be matched up with a blazer.

The blazer is Butterick 5926 and this is my second visit to this pattern. Sadly, the first version was a wadder and was never finished. I couldn't get over it and always wanted to try again. This blue and white striped ponte (I want to say it was from Fabric Mart) was just right for the pattern, and with the failure/practice of the first try I was finally able to be successful with it.

I can't go into much more detail than that, because I finished it nearly a year ago! It made a brief appearance on Instagram and then never got to the blog, because I couldn't figure out what to wear with it. It's also a polyester blend and I can only wear it for so long before it makes me stabby. This cami, however, is perfect and it's breathed new life into the blazer.

The simplicity of the Ogden Cami forced me to carefully consider my fabric choice as well as sizing. I rifled through my stash and found a polyester charmeuse (I had bought it for a coat lining but never made the coat) to use as a muslin. My bust measures 33" which was a 2, but my hips are 38" which was an 8. That's a LOT of grading out from bust to hip. I did my best to make a natural-looking curve and I think it came out as best as it could. I also added 1" to the length. I have a long torso and also a personal preference for longer shirts.

The facings I left at a size 2, so all the grading was beneath that area. Due to lack of fabric I did have to piece the back.

Speaking of fabric...I've been hoarding these precious scraps for years. This is stretch silk charmeuse, and it's from Mood. It was originally used for a lining on my first Victoria Blazer. Yes, the fabric is terrifying. I don't spend a lot of time with silk...I have three kids and three pets and it's just not practical. That said, I am now daydreaming of a set of silk pajamas. Can't lie, I definitely slept in this top and it was SO luxurious! Construction wasn't too bad, I used French seams and turned down the presser foot pressure on my machine.

I do have some bra-strap peekage (yes, that's totally a word) with my Ogden. Since I've only worn it with the blazer thus far, that hasn't been a big deal. But I did a small hack to leave holes in the straps. Now, I should be able to thread a convertible bra through the straps. If that's as clear as mud, don't despair, I'm working on a tutorial for it.

Inappropriate label from Kylie and the Machine

I have fabric on the way for another Ogden, now that I'm pretty certain on fit. This is one of those patterns that looks great on everyone and I can definitely recommend it!

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