Thursday, November 17, 2016

Jacquard Knit Cardigan

I really should stay off of Pinterest. Sometimes I get these ideas in my head, and no matter how hard I try, they don't pan out. That's what happened with today's creation, a kimono-sleeve cardigan from McCall's 6802.


First, fabric. I got this medium-weight jacquard knit from the Etsy shop Urban Rag Trader and it is awesome. And it was $4/yard!! It's thick, warm, and behaved like a ponte. This was one of those times where I had a great fabric and didn't want to screw it up with the wrong pattern, but I think I kind of did. Here are my inspiration photos from Pinterest to show you where my train of thought was going:


I chose McCall's 6802 because it had the fewest seam lines of any of my cardigan patterns. I liked the draped front that could turn and show the reverse, which in this case is a nice speckled black. I've made the pattern once before, so it was already cut, which might have influenced me a bit too much. I had the same problem this time around that I did the last time (slow learner?). There was way too much volume. I made a size 8, the smallest in the envelope. I did not add pockets.


Sewn as-drafted it looked way too much like a bathrobe. After I took the above photo, I went back and removed 1" under the arm, starting at the sleeve hem and then tapering to nothing at the hip. It gave me a slightly more fitted look like my inspiration photos. But the more I looked at it, the more I realized I should have made a cardigan pattern with set-in sleeves. I had been trying to avoid crazy directional issues with lots of seams but it just didn't work.


It's possible I just have a styling issue. I tried my best here, but perhaps I should have thought of potential pairings before sewing, huh? After finishing, I realized that what I should have made was a Morris Blazer. I still could have gotten the cool reverse black lapel, but it would be more structured. I'm half-tempted to order more of this fabric just to overcome my regret!


An additional note about this pattern: the waterfall portion is not hemmed or finished in any way. There is a center-back seam behind the neck that shows when you turn down the drape.


I covered my seam by hand with black rayon seam tape. If I were more fired up about this cardi I would do the same for the rest of the seams, since they occasionally peak out. And because the drape isn't finished, there is a part inside where the hem meets an un-hemmed part and just looks sloppy:


I could not double-turn this fabric to hem, it was too thick for my coverstitch, so I only have a single turn here. But you get the point.


I will not make this pattern again, I've learned my lesson. I'd still like to decide on outfit options though so I can wear this one, since the fabric is cozy and warm. Am I being too hard on myself or is everyone else seeing what I'm seeing here?

7 comments:

  1. Love the fabric, order more and make the Morris! It looks better after you took it in, though it is still a bit big on you.

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  2. There's plenty of fabric to work with. Can you take it apart and use it to cut the Morris blazer? I haven't made that pattern so don't know exactly what the pieces look like.

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  3. In my never-to-be-humble opinion, your disappointment in this garment is based on its failure to embody your inspiration, and not anything wrong with the cardigan itself. I love your inspiration pieces, but the only resemblance they bear to your garment is the 3/4 length and that the fabric is knit. Both of the pieces you admired have bold patterns and close fitting sleeves. I believe you are correct that yours would have been better with set-in sleeves. Regardless, it is a nice cardigan, and I wonder if you might like it better, if you made a matching tie belt for it, as this would significantly diminish the slouchiness, which you seem to dislike. I really think it might do the trick.

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    1. Ann you are so wise! I think you're right, it doesn't meet my vision but there isn't anything particularly "wrong" with this. Thank you for your perspective!

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  4. I think you're being hard on yourself as we tend to do sometimes. I actually prefer the original draft on you. I think the oversized/baggy look looked better on you. Especially with the skinny jeans, maybe belting it and boots.

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  5. I have the same bunching problem with dolman sleeves. I've learned to cut the pattern into a semi-raglan (seam joins to the shoulder seam instead of the neckline; search semi-raglan on Google Images to see) and that gives me a way to reduce the bunching, sometimes even with concave seam lines. Otherwise it's a very nice garment, well worth saving. Good luck.

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