Pattern Hack: Using Trim as a Sleeve

This post is part of a series this month about the Anno and Pum Kids' Peasant Sleeve Top by Apparel Pattern Making. So far, I've shown how you can lengthen a blouse to a tunic, and how to sew French seams with a side seam split. The last hack for this adorable top is to swap the flutter sleeve for a cute pre-made trim sleeve.

As-drafted, the pattern calls for a cap sleeve on the top part of the armscythe, and the bottom part is finished with bias tape. This method replaces the cap sleeve portion with trim, and then finishes the entire armscythe seam allowance with bias tape.

You will need: the cap sleeve pattern piece, the bias tape pattern piece, some ready-made trim and either fabric or bias tape. My trim is vintage and thrifted from a garage sale, but it was the perfect match for this Tencel woven from Jo-Ann's. 

Line the trim up through the center of the pattern, and cut two pieces. 

Before sewing the trim to the bodice, you will need to finish the short ends of the trim. How you do this will depend on the trim, but I just folded mine down and sewed it with a simple hem.

Sew up the bodice until you have the shoulders joined, but before you sew the side seams.

Find the center of the piece of trim and place that on the shoulder sleeve, pinning or clipping it in place right sides together.

Sew the trim to the opening for the sleeve.

Sew the side seams, using the French seam hack if you want!

The binding for the armscythe seam allowance will need to be cut twice as long as the pattern piece. Right sides together, pin or clip the bias binding to the seam allowance, and sew directly over the previous stitching line from sewing the trim to the armscythe. 

Wrap the bias binding over the seam allowance and sew it down again, making sure you're only catching the seam allowances and binding and not the top itself.

You're done! From the outside, you will not see any stitching around the armscythe. If your seam allowances poke out at all, you can tack them down to the side and/or shoulder seams to keep them from rolling out.

This tunic will be my daughter's Easter outfit this year, and she's so excited about it!

I am a freelancer for Anno and Pum Patterns and received this pattern for free.