Under the Gunn rehash!

It's amazing how little you get done when you have a sick toddler. Unless you count watching every animated movie on Netflix as "getting something done". Earlier this week it was 70 degrees, sunny, and we went to a nearby state park for the afternoon. It was glorious and a downright perfect day...until AB started barfing right in the middle of watching Beauty and the Beast. Watching Under the Gunn last night was a nice break from washing every blanket and towel that we own!

Spoilers ahead...

Things I loved:

Shan talking to his wife. Let's say it together: "awwwwwww".

Things I hated:

Asha isn't "a chiffon expert" who has a target on her back in terms of construction...uhhh...maybe she shouldn't use it then? By the way, I got some chiffon yesterday and I have no idea what to do with it. Ideas?

The stupid twist at the end to keep Asha and Sam. BOOOOOOO.

Favorite garment(s):

The designs continue to bore me. But Shan's was cool without the skirt. And was Anya wearing the same fabric as Shan's dress? That was weird.

Least favorite garment:

I told myself that Asha's chiffon would be disastrous...but actually it looked lovely. I didn't like her pants, however.

Oscar's was a costume. There, I said it. Just because some actress says she'd wear it in Paris doesn't mean she SHOULD. Also, if this were the real Project Runway, Nina and Zac would DESTROY Oscar for making a costume. These judges are soft.

Best line of the night:

Oscar's crazy quote about the final competition being Chernobyl and a bomb and all kinds of crazy things all at once. Sorry...I could barely understand it the first time!


As I said, I hated them keeping Asha and Sam. Let me rephrase that: I hated them keeping Asha. When Tim said that Sam was going through, I yelled at my TV and told Asha that it was karma for what she did to Natalia...and then they put Asha through. And my husband told me I had the bad karma. We'll see.

Next week: the finale! Heidi! 

Coastal Breeze Dress

A few months ago, I received an email from Toni at Make It Perfect, asking about my book. Toni is a blogger, pattern designer, and author, and a downright talented lady! We ended up doing a little trading and I can't wait to show off two of her patterns!

I might have squealed out loud when I saw the Coastal Breeze dress pattern. I have a RTW dress that looks very similar and I've never been able to find a pattern for it...until now! The RTW dress is actually a maternity dress...and I've been wearing it for two years. I'm glad I can give that one a bit of a rest and whip up my own versions.

These patterns are available via PDF download, or in paper format. Toni was kind enough to send me the paper version. The pieces are printed on large sheets, and you'll need to trace them off. You can't cut them out because coordinating pieces are on the same sheet of paper (i.e. the top and bottom of the bodice are on the front and back side of the same piece of paper). I had just purchased a large tracing pad so I honestly didn't mind this bit too much. Anything is better than tissue paper!!

First outdoor photos of the year!

What I LOVED is that any pieces that were rectangles (like neck binding or the skirt) had dimensions that were provided in the instructions, not with a separate pattern piece. Maybe I'm weird for liking that, but I find that it's way faster to just look at the directions and mark a rectangle on my fabric. I'd rather do that than trace off the pattern piece...put it on the fabric...cut it out...you get my point.

Still experimenting with the best time of day for photos.

I did find one error which was that the bodice pieces say to cut 2. The dress isn't lined, so I believe it should only read cut 1.

Blue leggings blogged here.

Once my pieces were all cut, this was a very simple sew. The instructions explain the skirt pleats in a clear manner, which I often screw up with poor directions.

Because I used my serger and my coverstitch machine, my order of construction was different, but you could easily make this garment on a traditional sewing machine alone.

The fabric is all from Girl Charlee. The chevrons are from a bargain box and were actually two separate pieces to start with, so I was thrilled that I could use up these roughly half yards. The dark grey waistband is left over from this disaster. The waistband is meant to be doubled-up, but I used chevron fabric inside because the grey polka dot has raised dots that would have been uncomfortable facing my skin.

Guts.

I sewed a size XS. Normally I would pick the smallest size in an envelope, but Toni thoughtfully includes girls' sizes, so this goes all the way down to a 3 XS. I actually had to use my brain and read the sizing sheet!

Next time, I think I'll change the neckline as it's a bit too wide to cover bra straps. I might also try a version with a draped front, since that's what my inspiration dress looks like.

And now for an overload of coverstitch photos! This was my first project using my new machine. I was scared, but I tried not to let that overwhelm me. Only once did I sew with the wrong side facing up and have to rip out the whole thing :)

Neckline

Sleeve hem

Skirt hem

Back side of skirt hem

I can't sew straight

Turns out that even with a fancy machine, you still have to sew in a straight line. It's tricky, given the speed (it sews as fast as a serger) but I think with practice I'll get a better handle on it. In the meantime, the stitches are amazing, the hems stretch perfectly, it looks SO GOOD from the inside...I'm so glad I bought one. Sorry to all of you who are trying to find reasons NOT to buy a coverstitch...you're not going to get any help from me ;)

The Coastal Breeze dress pattern is available here. Thank you again Toni for sending it to me, I love it! Stay tuned until next week when I model the Shearwater Kaftan.

Wardrobe Architect: spring/summer color palette

When I started playing with colors for a spring/summer capsule wardrobe, it felt like I was making two palettes at once. Here's a rough draft:

Are you seeing what I'm seeing? First of all, there are probably too many colors here. But secondly, it felt like two different groups. Blues/greens and pink/reds. It pained me to think about choosing one or the other, so I left a frustrated comment on the original post.

Thankfully, there were some responses and feedback that blue and pink definitely DO go together, but that I should try tweaking the shades a bit. I played around with the colors some more and ended here:

I needed a darker blue (navy) and a lighter pink. Those two shades will balance out some of the brighter ones that I can't resist, like neon pink or sky blue. Once I'd settled on these colors, I had a lot of fun looking up outfits on Pinterest that fit this palette (all the while reminding myself that these are for a CAPSULE collection, not the REST OF MY LIFE). It was amazing, but when I started looking for these colors in my life, I saw that they were everywhere.

Have you ever done something like this with color palettes? I could see it being useful for sewing or something like decorating your house. 

Under the Gunn rehash!

I wonder what the designers on these shows do when they lose their sew-jo (get eliminated?!). I usually sew every day, but there are some days where I just can't be bothered. Surely these guys feel that way? When I don't feel like sewing, I sketch or plan or cut or prewash fabric. Can't get away with that on this show! (Has anyone else ever wondered about the lack of prewashing? Don't some fabrics shrink when they steam them? #sewingquestions)

Spoilers ahead...

Things I loved:

I don't believe for a second that the designers were randomly paired with their clients, but I don't care. I like it better when they generally mesh well or their styles work together.

Shan keeping his cool. Can you imagine what any other designer would have done, if faced with his obstacles? Half of them would have demanded special treatment or extra time (I would have...)

Things I hated:

I don't want to go on a huge rant here...but the phrase "real women" drives me bonkers. Unless a model is a robot, then she's a real woman. I would much prefer the term "average woman" or, even better, no special terms at all!

Ummm...Anya was wearing a see-through top without a bra. WHAT?! Am I the only one who finds this disturbing?!

Favorite garment(s):

It's been a couple weeks now since I've seen a garment I loved. Oscar's was beautiful but deserved all the criticism it received.

Least favorite garment:

Blake's was bad. I felt sorry for his client. I felt bad for Blake! We've all fallen victim to the lure of beautiful fabric that doesn't work later. Sometimes I stop and ask myself "is this a garment or do you really just wish it could be curtains?"

Asha's looked tortured to me. I don't understand why she keeps attempting these complicated designs if her construction skills prevent the proper execution.

Best line of the night:

(If you watched the episode then you already know the best line, hands down.)
"Sort of like tips for tits." --Tim Gunn


Is it just me, or have the eliminations been pretty predictable up to this point? Next week is going to be difficult. I think Shan will get through to the final show for sure, and before this week I would have said Sam too, but he seems to be losing favor with the judges.

Next week...comic books?

Hemming Jeans

We have a running joke in our house that "if only" my husband knew somebody who sewed, then we could solve all his wardrobe issues. This is a joke because I rarely take the time to alter garments for him, as much as he needs it (bad wife!). He has a pair of brown jeans that he wears often, which were too long. No more!

This is how he was wearing his jeans. Rolled up. I THOUGHT it was because there was snow outside and he was trying to keep them dry...but then there wasn't any more snow. And they stayed rolled. I finally got around to hemming them when I realized I had brown thread on my sewing machine. LazyBeth for the win!

Finished hem.

I learned this hemming technique in the Craftsy class Tailoring Ready-to-Wear, taught by Angela Wolf (affiliate link). Yes, you can simply rip out the hem and then sew it again, which works fine for dress pants. But Angela shows you how to alter a jeans hem so that you can keep the original distressed edge. The final product keeps the original topstitching, so all of your sewing is inside the pants.

The technique is hard to explain in photos, but the Angela does a great job with her video in the class. You basically sew just inside the original hem with a zipper foot, so that you're getting as close to the original hem as you can, removing the fabric above it. You remove the excess fabric and then finish the raw edge.

By the way, I'm not very good at serging in-the-round! Especially over the thick double-folded jeans seams. While I'm at it, my regular sewing machine wasn't that good at dealing with the bulk, either (even with a jeans needle).

The trouble with my machines meant that this project turned out to be more time-consuming than I thought, but it was worth it in the end. I do have one tip: make sure the jeans are freshly washed, and that your subject sits down to test the new hem length. After washing, these "tightened up" a bit, as jeans tend to do, and when my husband sits down they're a touch short. But he's happy he doesn't have to roll them up anymore, and I'm happy I did some self-less sewing for once!

What I'm Reading: Sew Stylish magazine

Way back in February, my husband and I decided to buy each other a new Crock Pot for Valentine's Day. This is how we knew we had reached old married couple status. So imagine my surprise when the day rolled around and he surprised me with one of my favorite things: sewing magazines!

Photo via my Instagram feed

He was super proud that not only did he renew my Threads subscription, but he also picked up a copy of Sew Stylish.

I've been curious about this magazine but never read it before. Basically, it's like the cool little sister to Threads. Y'know how sometimes Threads will run an article about shoulder pads or weaving beads into coats or random stuff like that? Well, there's still a little of that in Sew Stylish, but not as much.

If 3D flowers are in, I want to be out.

Sew Stylish is published twice a year (spring and fall), with an emphasis on fashion trends from the corresponding seasons. I loved this aspect and it made it feel like a cross between Threads and Burda Style (oh Burda, why must you be so expensive?!). I really liked the features from designers like Angela Wolf and Cal Patch.

The only downside I could see is that there were some reprints of articles that previously appeared in Threads. I only know this because the magazine states it, I haven't been a Threads subscriber for long enough to see something I've seen before.

I'll definitely take a peek at the fall issue when it comes out, now that I'm familiar with the magazine. And by the way, we never did get a Crock Pot. The romance lives on!

Wardrobe Architect: Capsule Silhouettes...and a winner!

Last week in the Wardrobe Architect series, we were instructed to think about silhouettes for spring/summer, in the context of a capsule collection. I've never given much thought to making a capsule collection, mostly because I can be a bit flighty in my projects. I generally have about 5 garments in mind at once, and I like being able to choose from those when it comes time to start something new. But I guess it makes more sense to make those 5 "top priority" items be garments that go together! One of my biggest problems is definitely too many one-off items, things that work alone but not with anything else in my closet (did I mention I'm flighty?).

I went back through my Wardrobe Architect Pinterest board and looked over my common silhouettes, which I had made on Polyvore. I pulled out the ones that were appropriate for spring/summer. For reference, spring in Indiana can be 20 degrees, and summer can get up to 100. It's quite a large spread in terms of temperature! I quickly realized I needed another silhouette, one that incorporated capris.

As I worked on this exercise, I forced myself to be honest. Capris aren't always that sexy or cool, but I wear them a lot. So let's be real: what will I reach for on those days when I have 5 minutes to get ready? What will go into frequent rotation? I settled on these four silhouettes:

Feeling very pleased with myself, I pinned this image and was about to put this exercise to bed. Then I did a double-take: where are the skirts?!

Here's the truth: skirts don't work for my lifestyle. I wore them a lot in college, when I always carried a bag and being "cute" counted for a lot more than it does now. I have a closet full of skirts, but few of them have pockets. Some are way too short. Some are too big and constantly slip down whilst wearing them (eek!). When you're living with a rambunctious toddler, a wardrobe malfunction can be seconds away in a skirt.

What it comes down to is that I'd rather wear a dress (see "casual dresses" noted above). The right dress doesn't need adjusting all day. Some of my dresses have pockets, or they're pretty enough that I don't care!

So as strange as it seems, I'm happy to leave skirts out of my capsule wardrobe. I have one on my to-do list but it will likely fall out of the scope of the Wardrobe Architect series anyway. I'm feeling good about the silhouettes I did pick, and excited to move on to the next step.

And now, it's time to announce the winner of the Pattern Pyramid giveaway! Random.org has chosen...

Claire from Ragbags and Gladrags!

Congrats Claire, email me (sew110creations*at*gmail*dot*com) your address and I'll be sending this parcel of goodies your way!