BFF Bag Pattern

Apparel sewing will always be my first love, but every couple of months I get the urge to make a bag. Luckily, the urge struck me just as Loni from Havin Sew Much Fun asked for testers for her first ever pattern, the BFF Bag. 

Full disclosure: as a child of the 90s, I have a hard time accepting that fanny packs are back. But mom jeans are here and I've worn those, so I guess I should get over it. Not gonna lie, it helps to have a fanny pack that is as cute as this one!

The BFF Bag can be worn as a fanny, or crossbody. There are directions for right or left-handed wearing, which is something I've never seen in a bag pattern. I was thoroughly impressed with Loni's directions and illustrations. You never would've guessed it was her first pattern!

This is the tester version of the bag, but nothing changed in the design during testing, the instructions were just updated to be more clear in some areas. The only word of caution I have for you is to test the strap length a bit. You want it to be able to shorten it enough to wear over your hips, but also be long enough to go crossbody.

This is a quick sew requiring only a small amount of fabric. I was super excited that I could use my last precious scraps of pre-quilted Merchant and Mills fabric (used for a Tamarack here) and this fun coneflower cotton poplin print from LA Finch Fabrics. I interfaced the M&M fabric and that worked well. I made the strap from cotton twill. The pink and white striped trim on the outside pocket is vintage, from a garage sale. I used a magnet closure for the exterior pocket. Everything was from my stash except the hardware.

The interior zip that I had was a few inches too short, so I covered the ends with leather scraps. I added a sweary label inside because, if you know Loni, that just fits her vibe. 

I'd never done the seam binding finish on a bag before, but Loni's directions hold your hand and walk you through it just fine. Be patient and sew slowly. You probably will need a machine that can handle heavy fabrics. When going over the binding and the straps it gets pretty bulky.

I love how this bag turned out, and I think I'll be wearing it a lot this spring and summer! Grab your pattern here.

*I received this pattern for free during testing. All opinions are my own.

Wide Leg Ash Jeans

Apparently, lightning does strike twice. My first pair of Ash Jeans (flared view) turned out amazing. I almost doubted whether they could be that good again. Guess what. They can.

I've long needed a pair of nicer looking, trouser-esque jeans. I decided to try Ash again in the wide-legged version. I made the same size as before, a 6. This Tencel denim is totally bonkers and is fused/lined with French Terry. I'm serious. It was a score from LA Finch Fabrics (who else?) from two years ago. I previously made a pair of Yanta Overalls with it, and I liked it so much I went back and ordered more. I was worried about the stretch, but it turns out it worked fine for this pattern. I had totally forgotten it was Tencel but that explains why it's so soft!

Because I wanted these to look fancier, I skipped a lot of the contrast topstitching, omitted the belt loops and the leather patch. I also did not add rivets. Construction went a lot faster than normal because I wasn't switching back and forth among my machines for topstitching (I always use my vintage Singer 15-91 for jean topstitching).

My first pair, I added stretch interfacing to both the waistband and waistband facing, which went against the directions. Turns out, I should've followed the directions. The waistband is pretty darn tight on that first pair. I skipped it on this pair and the fit is much more comfortable.

I did follow a different method of construction so that I could fit the center back better. I have a swayback and always have to take wedges out to reduce gaping. I pulled out the directions for the long-forgotten classic Sewaholic Thurlow Trousers and followed those for the waistband assembly. Well, to a point. I just can't quit the idea of finishing the waistband facing with bias tape. It's so much easier and looks pretty. 

If you decide to chop the waistband in half at center back, make sure to add seam allowance on those ends. You can sew the legs and center front crotch seams together and leave the center back seam basted. Then you can fit the back seam from there.

For the hem, I cut the pants on the "tall" inseam length, then hemmed them 3" deep. I like the deep hem for a more trouser-like look. 

These jeans are super comfy and look so stylish! I still want to make this pattern in a skinny leg, and I have some black stretch denim set aside for that. Have you tried Ash?

Wool Gauze Patina Blouse

I recently posted my Hey June Rosslyn Trousers, while wearing my Patina Blouse, and couldn't believe it when I had no corresponding blog post for the Patina! It's such a great pattern, so here are the deets along with some photos you might have already seen lol. I had a lot of fun playing dress up with this blouse!

The Patina Blouse is from Friday Pattern Company. It's one of many of their patterns that I've tried and loved (Wilder Gown, Saltwater Slip, Heather Blazer, Saguaro Set). I don't often wear woven shirts with collars (I'm all about that comfy knit life) but when I'm in the mood for it, nothing else will do.

I measured close to a Small in the sizing chart, but decided to make an XS. That's the same size I wear in the Wilder Gown, and I also thought the Patina looks like it had just a touch more ease than I wanted. I'm super happy with the XS! I think a Small would have overwhelmed me a bit and possibly been too low cut.

About that neckline...it IS low on purpose. I don't dislike it, but other people might. So much so that Friday Pattern Co. released an alternate pattern piece and instructions for a raised neckline. Mine is unaltered and as-drafted.

The fabric I used is a true unicorn. It's a wool gauze deadstock from Stonemountain & Daughter. It is phenomenal, full stop. Light and airy but warm, soft and cozy but expensive-looking, it is all the things and I adore it. I had a tiny scrap left and I used it for a scarf. 

As nice as this fabric is, with the sleeve cap gathers and the double-layered collar it ends up being a little stiff. I would definitely not go any stiffer with fabric choices and would probably gravitate towards fabrics with better drape. You can always use interfacing to stiffen the collar, but you can't relax a fabric for pretty gathers. 

I definitely want to make this top again (maybe the long-sleeved version), and there are some super cute collar hacks out there too. And for the record, I can pull this on over my head without undoing the buttons, so don't be afraid to make a totally faux placket if you are a beginner and want to try this pattern.

Ponte Rosslyn Trousers

Another Hey June pattern on the blog today, this time the highly anticipated knit pants, the Rosslyn Trousers! (Forgive the lighting on the photos, I overexposed them on purpose so you could see the detail in the black better.)

Top is a Patina Blouse from Friday Pattern Co.

I've been waiting on this one for three years (not a joke). I made some knit pants back in 2020 and they were TERRIBLE. Worst pattern I've ever used (Patterns for Pirates SOS Pants). I still have a draft blog post of them that I haven't published because I was so embarrassed. Anyway. At that time, Adrianna sent me a message that she would eventually be releasing a knit pants pattern, but it would be far in the future. Well, that future is now and that pattern is Rosslyn!

These are actually not simple knit pants, they are definitely trousers. Fully functional fly, angled front pockets, and welt pockets on the rear. Traditional waistband and belt loops. The directions were excellent and there were plenty of links to blog posts for the tricky parts, if you needed help. There are three leg shapes; slim, straight and bootcut. I made the bootcut. The directions state that the bootcut is longer than the other two views. I am 5'4" and made no length adjustments.

I made a size 4 for my 37-38" hips. I ended up grading the waist closer to a size 2, which is not unusual for me in pants. I have a swayback, so I always have to take a wedge from CB. My tummy also tends to fluctuate in size. It's becoming quite annoying having pants that fit one day, and don't the next, when I'm making them myself! But that's part of being a living, breathing human and I'm trying to give myself permission to just wear a dang belt if I need it.

The fabric I used is a delicious rayon/nylon/spandex ponte from LA Finch Fabrics. I ordered five yards of it! Eventually, I'd like to make a jacket (maybe an Evans Blazer?) with my leftovers. You just never know when you'll need a good black ponte. There are a couple other colors online right now and if you like them, do not hesitate to add to cart. I did take care when pressing and used a press cloth to prevent shine, but the high rayon content meant that it pressed well (unlike a polyester ponte).

Man this view looks terrible...they are definitely sagging

There were a couple times that I deviated from the directions to achieve a more elevated look. I got part way through constructing the welt pockets and realized that they were made by stitching the pocket bag directly to the back of the pants. I decided instead to make a more traditional welt pocket bag. I consulted the Reader's Digest sewing book for help there, and discovered a cute pocket tab detail that I incorporated.

After the first pocket was done, I was super duper over it and didn't feel like making a second. I could also see that in this heavy, stretchy knit fabric, the welt pockets were likely to gape. Long story short, one welt pocket is fake, one is real. The fake one has been hand-sewn shut to prevent it pulling open. In the future, I'll probably stick with faux welt pockets in stretchy fabrics.

For all my pocket bags, I used a swim knit to keep them lightweight and prevent too much bulk.

I did not topstitch the waistband, but stitched in the ditch instead. Once again, this was a personal preference for a nicer finish.

Looking at these photos, you can tell that they are sliding down because they do not fit tightly enough in the waist, despite the belt. I was warned by a friend on IG that the rise is high and I agree. A combination of a lower rise and a smaller waist would probably help me with fit. Overall though, I'm pleased with how nice these look. I typically only wear dress pants to church in the wintertime, and finally I have some that are warm enough for these brutal Midwest winters.

If I ever go back to working in an office, I'll likely pull this pattern out again and make myself a bunch of secret pajama ponte pants. 

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Hey June Fairmount Shacket

In the last year, I have sewn three Fairmount Shackets, and I have not blogged a single one. My first one has popped up on IG a bunch of times but it's never gotten a proper review. For shame!

In case you missed it, the Fairmount Shacket is from Hey June Handmade and it is wonderful! I made a size 4. My measurements put me at a 2 for the bust and a 6 for the hips, so I split the difference going with a 4. I'm happy with how it turned out and it fits nicely over other garments without being too big. No need to go up a size or anything, the pattern is drafted with the right amount of ease so that it's slightly oversized.

The fabric is a wide flannel from LA Finch Fabrics (sold out now). It's not a super soft flannel, it is VERY lightly brushed only on one side. It is durable though and has held up well despite a ton of wear.

This pattern is definitely the more complicated of the shacket patterns out there. A convertible collar, full button cuff with placket, optional patch pockets with flaps, a pleated back and lined yoke, and a button placket. It's not a quick sew, but the instructions will get you through it no problem. I made this first one without any modifications.

After I made this Fairmount, I got the crazy idea to make a fully lined version with sherpa and a hood. I owe the world a lengthy post about that process! Even though the lined one is amazing and snuggly, I still wear this first one a lot. It fills the same hole in my wardrobe as a cardigan, but it's more suited to outdoor walks than my knitwear. 

Have you tried a shacket yet? I think you'll be surprised how much you wear one!

I am a Hey June affiliate and my links have been used. All opinions are my own and my love of this pattern is genuine!

Wool Felt Play Mat and Fairy Stump House

This post contains affiliate links.

I'm hard at work on my handmade holiday, and today I'm showing off the felt play mat I made for my daughter!

Okay, not gonna lie. I played with it myself a little bit. It's just too cute not to! On Black Friday I got a great deal on these two handmade dolls from Ollie Ella. Originally, I thought I would give one to my 7 year old and one to my 6 year old, and that would be that. But things got totally out of hand, and I decided to make a whole universe for the dolls as well.

The fairy stump house was made following a tutorial/pattern from Lia Griffith. This is a company with a subscription-based model. I went ahead and paid the monthly fee of $9.99 to sign up, and immediately received access to this month's projects (15+ in a variety of craft genres) and SVGs (another 15+ here). With a monthly subscription, you also get 5 bonus downloads and can choose from past projects. The fairy stump house was one of my 5 projects and my first download. 

All in all, I'm very happy with the $10 spent and what I get for it. I would have probably paid $10 for just the house pattern! It came with a printable PDF and SVG cut files. I was able to cut all the small, fiddly pieces with my Cricut. I used wool blend felt from Gingermelon, stabilized with Heat N Bond, and cut with my Cricut Explore Air 2.

I have used affiliate links for Lia Griffith, if you sign up I earn a 5% commission ($0.50 on $10). Not making crazy money here, just want to pass along a site I've enjoyed using!

I deviated a bit from the design of the stump house, just based on what moved me in the moment and which colors of felt I had on hand. I also made it taller to accommodate the dolls, and added a bottom. The entire thing is sewn by hand using embroidery stitches. 

The green felt is from Jo-Ann's and is a recycled polyester. It is thicker and sturdier than a wool felt and works great as a base. The fire I made from sticks, hot glue, and felt.

The tent is a linen/cotton scrap. I had 12" dowel rods on hand from making my free banner pattern, and cut them in half with a hacksaw. It took me WAY too long to figure out a good way to make the tent. I tried all kinds of things before I ended up here. 

I hope my daughters appreciate all my hard work and are delighted on Christmas morning!

True Bias Jesse Tee with Screenprinting

I feel like it's been quite a while since I made myself something simple, and the new Jesse Tee from True Bias is a great palette cleanser. You can get this pattern for free if you sign up for the True Bias newsletter. There are two versions, cropped and regular length, and sizing is from 0-32.

I was drawn to the cropped version, since I already have my ride or die TNT t-shirt in the Union St. Tee. I have gently eased into the high-rise/cropped shirt trend, but only with cropped tank tops. This is my first crop top with a sleeve, and I like how it came out!

Fabric choice is important if you want to achieve the boxy shape shown in the sample photos. You don't want too much drape, or you'll lose the silhouette. True Bias has a blog post about fabric here, they recommend the slub jersey from iSee Fabric. I decided to shop my stash and found a navy...cotton interlock? I'm not exactly sure. The amount of random navy knits in my "large scraps" section is overwhelming, but that's my best guess. I'm super happy that I was able to use something leftover from another project.

The fabric worked out great! I opted to put the neckband in flat, just in case the stretch didn't work, but it was perfect. I made a size 4 for my 33" bust and I love the fit.

And because I saw something similar on Pinterest earlier that morning, I decided to make a "crop top" design to screenprint onto the front of the tee. I've never used white screenprinting ink before. It's a bit thicker than I'm used to, so I did a practice run on some black jersey. This crop top design is available in my Etsy shop as an SVG cut file, a PNG, or a DXF. I used the SVG to cut permanent vinyl and made a screen that way. You could also cut it from heat transfer vinyl and apply directly to a shirt, my favorite is Siser Easy Weed.

I love this top with my RTW-refashioned mom jeans! Have you tried the Jesse Tee?