Thursday, August 4, 2016

A Dolman Shouldn't Take So Long

A few weeks ago I discussed the different dolman top patterns I was considering for my fall sewing. Feeling super smart and smug, I forged ahead with Simplicity 1463, which is a pattern that I have made once before. I did the right thing and tried on my old version (it was made two years ago) to check for any changes.

This is view B, which has an open cross-over back. I wanted to make the same view but with a regular back. In other words, view A without sleeve cuffs.

I was happy with the fit of my previous top except that it needed to be longer, as I said in my review. I added two inches to the length at the waistline and got to work. Ta da! 

I'll spare you the boring details, but apparently two years ago when I cut out my tissue pattern I did so rather haphazardly. And my poor brain, lacking anything remotely close to sleep, did not notice that the sizing was off between the front piece and the back piece. There was some grading at the waist and hips and it didn't work and blah. What I ended up with, halfway through sewing, was a top that was WAY too big in the back. I should have realized that would happen since it did happen with my previous version, even if it was a different view.

So I improvised. Apparently I never learn. This is not the first time I've made a garment with a too-blousey back. First I sewed smaller side seams. Then I decided to fix it the way I fixed McCall's 6612 and add some gathering in the back. I sewed down a casing and inserted elastic. That didn't gather it enough and I had to add two vertical tucks as well. Despite how destined for failure this started out, I like how it developed. It's not a boring dolman anymore, even if all the party is in the back.

The fabric I used is leftover cotton knit from Nature's Fabrics (previously used for a bridesmaid's dress last year). It's super comfortable and soft. My only complaint is that the neckband is doing something weird, but I think I just needed to shorten the neckband a little. I did lower the neckline 1/2".

I used my coverstitch for topstitching and hemming and since it was threaded with white, there ya go. The curved hem was making me twitchy just thinking about it, but I took a shortcut and sewed a basting stitch at the hemline. This gathered the fabric a little and allowed me to turn up the fabric along the basting and hem. Then I removed the basting stitch. If you're going to use this method, make sure your hem isn't too deep or you'll end up with tucks from the gathering. I was just glad to skip the Wonder Tape this time.

Post-baby pooch. Sad face.

I loved this so much I even pressed it and washed it before modeling for you. The dedication! Unfortunately, since I made so many on-the-fly changes, I don't think I can make this pattern again. It will literally be easier to pick a different dolman and try again. On my table now is a muslin of the Style Arc Ginger Top. Spoiler alert: it's awesome.

In the meantime I'll be wearing the heck out of this green top. I can't wait to pair it with skinny jeans and boots or Chucks in the fall (are skinny jeans still in? I've been wearing maternity jeans for the last two years...). Sometimes it's the simplest makes that get the most love.

1 comment:

  1. I really like that color - clever save on the too big back!


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