Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Sewing Project: Simplicity 2594

Today's pattern is one of my favorites, though I'm still working out the fitting kinks. It features many different views, most of which I would love to make (not so much that lace monstrosity!) and it will look good in a variety of fabrics (knits AND wovens, how often can you do that with one pattern?). Check out the 40 reviews over at PR if you need more convincing!

Per usual, the first time I sewed this up, I used a "I'm-not-SO-in-love" fabric, in order to have a wearable muslin. I promise I don't take this approach every time, but if it's a pattern I really like and think I'll be making a lot, I'd rather practice and get it right.

This is a lightweight cotton jersey from Girl Charlee, with watercolor florals. I mentioned last week that I have learned my lesson about floral prints. This top is part of the curriculum. It's a very pretty fabric, but it's not totally "me". I made view E (with length F), which has a V-neck, and I think that the combination of the neckline and the floral means that this top turned out too much like scrubs. Put me in a doctor's office and I'll fit right in.

Despite my reservations about the print, I've worn this blouse a lot. It goes well under a jacket in this cold weather, and the slight sheen to it (Girl Charlee called it a silk jersey, even though it's cotton) makes it look just dressed up enough that I would feel comfortable in any situation. It makes me kind of sad, that maybe I let the fabric down by forcing it into the wrong kind of pattern. And then I remember that fabric doesn't have feelings : )

There are a few details that make this much more interesting than a t-shirt. The back yoke extends over the shoulders and drops down in front.

Back yoke extending to front.

The second detail I like is the pleats on the front. They aren't too forceful (especially in a busy print like this) so they lend a sweetness to the look.


The back is also nicely gathered for a loose fit.

Back gathers.

And the best part: no set-in sleeves (at least in this view). I love this sort of extended shoulder/cut-on/kimono whatever you want to call it sleeve. All the benefits of covered shoulders, without any of the work of a sleeve.

Now on to the worst part of this pattern. It's huge. The ease is 7 inches! I had been warned by Pattern Review, and I took in as much as I could, but the construction (yoke and yoke facing without a real shoulder seam) made it difficult. The shirt was basically done before I could do a proper fitting. I recommend making any adjustments to the pattern pieces before you cut out. The same issues persist, however, that if you adjust the yoke, you need to also adjust the back, and the front. Overall, I wish the entire pattern would just shrink. I'm considering taking the pieces to Staples and copying them at 90%!

I definitely will be making this pattern again, and will make sure I don't use any other fabrics that look like scrubs material. I'd love to make it in a small-scale polka dot. Any one else guilty of making something that looks like it belongs in a doctor's office? Or, in my head, it makes me think of a vet's office (my sister is a vet tech). Any tips on shrinking a pattern all over?

Someone wanted to be a part of the photo shoot.

And I'm happy to oblige.


  1. Nice job, I don't think this looks like scrubs...at least no one In my Dr's offices wear any floral scrubs.

    I've made this pattern a number of times and like the top a lot. I thought that only the cowl neck top was cut on the bias, not the V neck. But you're right, it does have lots of ease!

    1. Do you remember how you worked with the yoke? It's a tricky little sucker and the pattern isn't helpful. Thanks

  2. Thank you! And a helpful member of Pattern Review pointed out that when working with wovens cut on the bias (which is how the pattern is designed to be used) you need lots of ease. I was working with jersey, so I didn't need to cut on the bias, and I didn't need quite that much ease for jersey.

  3. My measurements would put me squarely between a 16 and 18. I cut this in a woven, size 14 and had to take in the side seams, below the bust, a bit more than 5/8". I think 7 inches of ease is HUGE!

    Anyway, I love your top! I think it's pretty for the upcoming spring season!

    1. Thank you! It makes me feel better that it's pretty big even when the "correct" fabric is used.

  4. I need help. I have not been behind a sewing machine in 10 years and I am so confused. I got a new sewing machine for Christmas - yay! Most of it is coming back to me, but I can't figure out this yoke part of the pattern. Do I sew the two sides together? do I sew one side? Help!

    1. Don't worry, you're not the only one who has trouble with the yokes! I believe you make a sandwich with the yokes and the front bodice along the shoulder. The yokes are the "bread" and the bodice is the "meat". If it stills seems tricky, try pinning it a few different ways until you're happy with it. I think most people had to do what worked for them because the instructions aren't clear.

  5. I know this is an old thread but the reason I searched for it is those darn yokes! I'm going to fight with it again tonight after work by using the sandwich example....

    1. Any luck? I believe it's meant to be right side of yoke to right side of bodice, then wrong side of bodice to right side of the second yoke. Clear as mud? ;)


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