Wednesday, June 5, 2019

Helen's Closet Yanta Overalls

You can never have too many overalls, right? If you disagree, this is probably not the blog for you.


I was drawn to the Yanta Overalls as soon as I saw them. I've slowly been incorporating more linen into my wardrobe, and this was a pattern that looked perfect for that. I ADORE my black stretch denim overalls, but they're not the same as a soft, more loosely structured overall. It was hard to keep this one at the bottom of the queue, especially when I saw this taupe linen at Blackbird Fabrics.


It's literally the most boring color on the face of the earth...but that's what makes it special! I'm pretty sure I can wear this color with anything, which was the point (so obviously I paired it with a grey t-shirt!). This fabric was an absolute dream to sew, and it's even better to wear. I've dealt with scratchy linen, stiff linen, linen blends with more weight and drape, linen the wrinkles beyond saving. I'm fairly certain this is the best one I've ever used. It's the absolute lightest I would use for this type of garment, which means it's easy to wear and isn't heavy. It's opaque. It's a chameleon color that is sometimes brown and sometimes grey.


I have a 33" bust and 38" hips. My bust would put me at a 4 and my hips at a 10. I made a 6. That is the same size I made in the Winslow Culottes, also from Helen's Closet. I felt that the culottes were a touch big, but I figured I could take them in around the hips without too much trouble. I ended up NOT doing that, because as-is they can juuuuuust pull on over my hips without a zipper. I didn't have a suitable zip at the time I was rushing to finish these. So, I finished them as-is and I'll come back at a later date to insert a zip and take in the hips.


The pattern includes a ton of helpful fitting diagrams, as well as detailed finished garment measurements. I was very impressed with the directions. This would make an excellent first-time-overalls pattern (is that a thing?). I do recommend pinning the straps in place and walking/sitting/stooping/jumping jacks to make sure you have the seat dropped low enough for comfort in all those things.


You really have to like patch pockets if you want to make this pattern. The tester versions all have inseam pockets instead of the front patch pockets, but I believe they were scrapped due to the side zip. That means there are five total patch pockets. A fabric that presses well is an absolute must or you will certainly have wonky pockets.


I accidentally put the bib pocket on upside down, but I ain't mad at it. I like it better this way. I did sew bartacks on the corners of the pockets, although they are hard to see in these photos. I used the bartack setting on my machine and they came out...okay. Definitely something that needs practice.


The buttons I used are from Jo-Ann's and were in my stash.


The interior is finished with facings, which provides a perfect place for a cool label. It also means I can pretty easily dissassemble the finishings later to put in that zip. If I do that. Maybe.


These overalls were perfect for an outdoor gathering and dinner on the patio. I was suuuuuper tempted to sleep in them but restrained myself, and instead wore them two days in a row. I have another version planned in a stretch woven, you'll definitely want to stay tuned for that!

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