Thursday, November 15, 2018

Yuzu Raglan Coat

All coat posts are required to start the same way: WOOHOO I MADE A COAT!


I've been wearing the same winter coat for longer than I can remember. In fact, I blogged about mending it way back in 2013. Every year I've known how to sew and haven't made a coat, I've felt guilty. It was an actual NEED in my closet and yet I kept finding myself sewing more sweatshirts. Shameful. This year, I finally got my act together!


This is the Yuzu Raglan Coat by Waffle Patterns, with the free hood add-on. To be honest, the hood is what swayed me to pick this pattern. Maybe it's my imagination, but it seems like coat patterns cost a lot of money and then only offer one view. This pattern offers a curved or straight hem, patch or welt pockets, and a stand-up collar or hood. There is also a newly released ebook called 23+ Pockets that looks like could all be used with any coat pattern.


The fabric is a wool/nylon Melton that I bought from Fabric Mart. I had hoped it would be a lot more green-toned olive than it turned out to be, but it's okay. It's utilitarian and will probably hide dirt well, so, win? The lining is Bemberg rayon from Mood. I. Hate. Bemberg. But it's so goooood in a coat! I think it'll be a nice long while before I sew with it again, though. Additionally, I've noticed that this coat is not warmer than my old one. The old one is lined with a quilted lining. I'll definitely be making my next coat with something similar, instead of rayon.

I'm wearing a scarf underneath...I'm not really that lumpy

I majorly dragged my feet on this project. I waited a month to buy the pattern after I decided on it. I sent it off to PDF Plotting so I wouldn't have to print and assemble it. I measured the scale box incorrectly (it's 10cm NOT 4in) and spent a few days fretting about that. I cut everything but the lining. I took a week to make the two welt pockets. The welts are dramatically different sizes. They were the only part (aside from the sleeves) that gave me trouble, they were constructed in a way different from any other welts I've done before. It didn't help that I sewed one of the pocket bags on upside down.


Eventually, I got to the point where I had the lining and outer assembled and could slip one into the other. That's when I started to get excited about the project. The raglan sleeves were so easy to sew compared to a set-in sleeve. Everything was looking really good. Then I cut 2" off the sleeves. Whoops. As drafted, the sleeves are definitely long. But I should have left them alone. After sewing the pieces together at the sleeve opening, the sleeves were too short. Livable, but too short. I was deflated all over again.


I pulled out my old coat to check the sleeve length on it, to see how badly I'd screwed everything up. I realized that it was finished with a thick cuff. Hey, I could do that! I had plenty of fabric left over.


The cuffs solved two problems. First, the length is now perfect. Second, no matter what I did, I had some twist in the sleeve. I couldn't get the lining to sit properly. I added the cuff individually to each part, and then topstitched them together. That way I could line them up evenly. It's hard to explain, so please ask questions if you have them.


I made a size 34. My bust measurement put me at a 36, but thankfully the finished measurements were included. There was 7" of ease! I decided to size down. The bust fits perfectly now, but I do have some pulling through the hip. I doubt anyone will notice but I think you can see in the photos that below the buttons the coat doesn't come straight down.


Speaking of buttons, they are from Jo-Ann's and they're nuts and I love them. I opted not to add the second row and I also didn't sew snaps into the inside. I used a black fusible interfacing for everything except the front panel. I ran out of interfacing so I used thick cotton flannel instead. 


This was my first time using a design from Waffle Patterns. I would definitely classify this pattern as advanced. I have made three other coats in the past (just not for me!) so this wasn't my first rodeo. That said, there are TONS of diagrams that are very well done. I relied a lot on them, as sometimes I found the wording of the instructions to be confusing. Additionally, the seam allowance appeared to be 1.2cm all over, but LOTS of the pattern pieces said that this was an "exception to indicated". IDK. I sewed everything with a 1.2cm SA. I marked it on my sewing machine with tape since I'm not all that handy with centimeters. I recommend sticking with centimeters when sewing this and ignoring all the "almost equal to" inch directions.


There are many details that elevate the pattern above others, such as pleats in the lining, a blind hand-sewn hem, catchstiching on the facing, and a two-part sleeve. Basically, I'm happy I gave my money to Waffle Patterns and I will happily give them more for another coat next year (Tosti, I'm looking at you...drool...). And now for a photo dump!







The second time I wore this coat out in public I received a compliment on it. I love how it's sort of Lothlorien-esque and unusual. I think the color will grow on me and I'm excited to wear it this winter. As you can see, fall is already over and the snow is here!


3 comments:

  1. Yay for perseverance! I really like this, especially the color. I love so many of her outerwear pieces but decided I wasn't going to try anymore coats until I had an official class of some sort.

    Of course I made a Burda jacket after that but... :)

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  2. I was looking at the photo where your hand is in the pocket, thinking how much I liked the sleeve length, and how graceful it looked, then read on and see you achieved that by adding the cuff! What a great job you did, it is a beautiful coat and the buttons!!

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