Thursday, March 14, 2019

Winslow Culottes and Ogden Cami

Every now and then (okay, most of the time) I get a little obsessed with an idea. Sometimes one pattern, sometimes a hack, sometimes recreating something I saw in RTW. Most recently, it's been the combination of Winslow Culottes and Ogden Camis. This combo is all over IG, and although it's not my normal silhouette, I've been desperate to try it. And now I have!

I'm usually a tank top and shorts kind of gal. I'm going to be honest though, I'm super bored with that look. My kids are still little, but they aren't projecting-fluids-every-second little any more. I have the mental space for clothes that are just a bit nicer, as long as I can still move and be comfortable. Opposite of that idea though, I am wearing a strapless bra in these photos (this one, from Amazon, which is easily the weirdest-looking garment I own).

Let's start with the top, because it's easy. This is my second Ogden Cami. The only change I made from the first one is to grade the hips out to a 6 instead of an 8. Next time, I'll probably take that in again to a 4 (the bust is a 2 and I did lengthen 1" from the pattern). I feel like this one is a smidge too blouse-y, especially for tucking into pants. The fabric is a rayon challis from Style Maker Fabrics and it is so good. They have a ton of amazing choices for Ogdens. I struggle with prints, so when I find one that works for me I fall pretty hard for it. I used French seams for the sides but finished the bottom edge of the facings with my serger.

Now on to the pants! I've been a culottes lover for a long time, even drafting my own knit versions many years ago. I liked the amount of options in this pattern. There are four lengths and also quite a few hacks on the Helen's Closet blog for other mods. One of those hacks is for back elastic in the waistband, which is what I've done here.

I attempted to make the pattern as-written, with an invisible zipper in the back. But I could not get the waistband eased into the top of the pants, no matter what I tried. It is not a shaped waistband and it is interfaced. None of my normal tricks works. I even tried gathering the entire top of the pant to fit it into the waistband and that looked terrible. I can't see any universe where I will attempt it again, even though I would make the pattern again. Either the waistband will be shaped, or I won't interface it, or I'll cut it longer (or the pants smaller).

To make a version with elastic in the back, you need a longer waistband. I had used almost every last scrap just cutting the culottes, and was super lucky to find one long-ish piece left. I still had to piece it together, and then piece it again to the front waistband, cut down from my original. So these pants definitely earned their label.

I measured a size 8 in the hips and a size 6 in the waist. The directions stated to go with your waist measurement, and I find that to be good advice. I made a straight size 6 and still feel like there is perhaps a bit of extra volume in the hips. Maybe if I cut a 4 in the pant it would fit into a 6 waistband??

I did remove 2" from the length. This was 100% to save fabric but it ended up being correct for my height anyway. I'm 5'4" and the pattern is drafted for 5'6". I made view C. Length is very easy to modify as the side seams are straight down under the pockets.

NOW THIS FABRIC! It is an olive rayon/linen blend from La Mercerie. They call it Avery Slub Linen and it is in my top five favorite pieces of fabric I've ever put my hands on. Possibly top three. It is incredibly soft, with amazing drape, but not too shifty. Fraying was at a minimum and it is mostly opaque. I have always been a knits girl, but after finishing these pants I've been dreaming of an entire wardrobe made from this fabric. AND it comes in a ton of colors! I have the Charcoal on deck for a dress, and I'm just looking for an excuse to order more colors. GO. BUY. IT. Do note, though, it is only 51" wide, which is kind of a weird number. I actually emailed Helen's Closet to ask if I could fit Winslow's on that width. I used 2 yards for mine but if I were taller or wanted a longer view, I would've needed more fabric. I also had to do some weird fussy cutting to be able to have pockets.

All my dreams have come true with my Ogden+Winslow combo, but I want to wear these pants all spring, so I've been trying other tops too. I looooove it with this tshirt (from Target, free from a friend!) tied into a knot. It's a super simple tee, just like the half a dozen Unions in my closet, and I tied a basic knot. Somehow it pulls the look together and is so much better than a sloppy tshirt and shorts.

I wore this outfit outside for hours, chasing kiddos and dogs on our first 70 degree day. It was comfortable, breezy, and great for a warm spring. I expect it to be on high rotation!

1 comment:

  1. You look so good in this combo! The Ogden doesn't even look that blousy in these pics tbh. Actually this whole look is so chic from hair down.


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