Thursday, August 23, 2018

Black Overalls

Wow, what an inspiring post title! I wanted to go with “World’s Most Amazing Handmade Item Ever” but that sounded a little pretentious, although accurate. May I present to you, black overalls!

I really hope these photos don’t just look like black blobs, but we all know how hard it is to photograph black. I tried! If these look familiar but not exactly, you’re right. I used Burda 6599, which I made earlier this year in the shorts version. I love that one, but did want to tweak it a bit. I sewed the same size as before, a 10, with the following modifications:

  • Shortened the front bib by removing 1" at the top, and 1 1/2" mid-bib (lengthened straps to accommodate this change)
  • Lowered the underarm portion front and back, eliminating one side button
  • Stitched the darts on the back before sewing on the back pockets
  • Less topstitching, specifically on the waistband and straps
  • Reinforced under the buttons on the top of the bib (used fabric scraps in addition to interfacing)
  • Changed the shape of the front bib pocket (it's a 5"x6" rectangle)
  • Drafted a new hip pocket to reduce bulk
  • Used a lining fabric for the waistband facing to reduce bulk
  • Shortened the legs by removing 1" at the first L/S line and 1" at the second L/S line
  • Narrowed the legs for a tighter fit

As I said, I liked my first version, but there are two things that bug me about them. First, the bib is super long, and when sitting it sort of folds down onto itself. Second, it's HOT! The way it's drafted, the pattern calls for a waistband facing from denim, as well as hip pockets from all denim. The side buttons are multiple layers as well as the straps. It's just a LOT of denim. For my black pair, I used a lining fabric for the waistband facing. I also redrafted the hip pockets so that the pocket bag could be made from lining fabric instead of all denim. These changes helped a ton and this version is way less bulky and hot.

I also dropped the underarm and removed one side seam button from each side. I can now wiggle these off without even unbuttoning them. Score!

Tee is a triblend Union St. Tee

Now let's talk about materials. This. Fabric. It might be my most favorite fabric of any fabric I've ever worked with...except maybe this wool French terry. But a close second! It's a stretch denim from The Fabric Store. Anyone who has worked with denim knows that the quality is all over the place, especially stretch denim. Black stretch denim is even more impossible. It's not dark enough, fades quickly, shows white upon stretching...all kinds of things can go wrong. But none of them have with this one! I love it so much, I went back to order more, and was absolutely crushed when I couldn't find it. I emailed The Fabric Store and they got back to me right away, saying they are trying to get more of it. Apparently it was very popular. You can bet, if they restock, I will have a pair of skinny jeans out of this stuff!!

The hardware I used is silver jean tacks from Wawak, as well as silver overall buckles from Dritz. I swapped out the engraved buttons in the kit for solid ones that matched the side seams. I decided not to add any rivets to keep the overall effect more modern and clean.

The lining fabric I used is LIBERTY OF LONDON Tana Lawn, also from The Fabric Store. I ordered a teeny tiny half yard (that crap is expensive!) specifically to use with this project. This was my first time working with Liberty fabric and yeah, it was pretty nice! I don't usually gel with their prints, but I liked the colors in this one.

The back pocket design was stitched at random. 

I adore these overalls. They are so incredibly comfortable, stylish, and one of a kind. I had a vision of all the changes I wanted, and they came out perfectly. You can bet that once the weather cools down (it was only about 68 degrees when I took these photos!) I'll be wearing them nonstop. And it's okay if you don't like the Birkenstocks, I think my Chucks will work just fine too ;)

1 comment:

  1. Those turned out fantastic! I last had bib overalls in 1979, and yours are so much cuter. :-D


I would love to hear from you! Please feel free to comment below.

Newsletter sign up